Robert Geller

We return to our runway recaps, detailing the top ten Kempt looks from Fashion Week. It’s important to note here that since most men’s collections are revealed to marketers and buyers two weeks before the big festivities under the tents, most designers have a two-week jump on the women’s clothiers, allowing for laid-back, open-bar presentations here and there. This may or may not have been a good thing. We’ll have to check with our sponsor.

8. Loden Dager:

A little-known brand in the big scheme of things, Loden Dager has gained a good deal of popular support from editors and insiders. Some of this is due to it’s colorful cast of designers, but more of it has to do with their intriguing mix of prep and subversion. Yes, yes, at their presentation (white wine) there were flat-front pants and simple overcoats a plenty. But the careful use of oversized checks, wide collars and bold color palettes made these familiar, almost conservative forms new and inviting. In particular, a ghostly slate three-piece suit was a winner. [Paper Magazine]

And #7 is…»

Our friends at UrbanDaddy just turned us on to Assembly New York, a new vintage-plus boutique on the Lower East Side. Like their neighbors Black Sheep and Prodigal Sons, Assembly stocks a healthy selection of random objects to back up their more than formidable rack fodder. Our favorites include a ram-shaped bolo tie, four-eyed Chinese masks (an artifact of an earlier time, we’re sure), and enormous (but surprisingly sturdy) vintage corkscrews.

More pics and info on Assembly New York»

As we’ve noted before, cobbling’s a tough racket. And while we’ve seen a lot of good stuff come out of the UK, domestic shoe men are usually more interested in basketball than brogues.

But there’s always the exception»

Today, our friends at UrbanDaddy take a look at Stock, one of New York’s best vintage stores. It’s equally beloved as a source for designers, a reference point for devotees of Early American Menswear, and a secret weapon for aspiring MOTHs throughout the city. And naturally, there were more than a few items that caught our eye.

See our favorite finds»

Our friends at UrbanDaddy put us onto this late 60s picture of Miles Davis—currently on sale in limited edition at New York’s Morrison Hotel Gallery—and it made us reconsider the man as an unlikely style icon.

For one, those sunglasses were custom-made, and should look familiar to anyone who’s walked around Los Angeles in the last few summers. (Then again, you probably mostly saw them on women.) Even if the afro-futurist look hasn’t caught on outside of a few Atlanta natives, Davis’ ideas about style deserve a lot more attention than they get.

More on Mr. Davis’ unlikely style»

Now that we’ve set you up with a moped, you may need a tougher jacket to get you through the occasional wipeout. After all, even the briefest brush with the pavement will leave your peacoat well and truly tattered.

Our friends at UrbanDaddy tipped us off Smith & Butler, a biker-inspired shop in Brooklyn that happens to have some of the best gear in the borough. Old favorites like Barbour and Belstaff should keep you protected while you’re riding, but there’s plenty else to check out while you’re here.

Brands like Filson, Pendleton and Pointer make up one of the best workwear collections you’ll find anywhere, alongside nautical sweaters from Saint James and some choice photography books from Rin Tanaka. Add in a few well-chosen vintage items, and you’ve got one of our favorite new stores.

Hopefully your moped makes it to Brooklyn.

Take a look around the store»

Vintage lover and Friend-of-Kempt David Hart has been one of our favorite tie men since we saw his scotch-plaid bow ties back in November, but after his UrbanDaddy write-up, we figured it was time to give his wardrobe a closer look.

The sartorial breakdown»