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KEMPT

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“Three-Piece Suits”
01/07/08 ·

Dept. of Corrections

GQ's January Blues

GQ

Note to GQ readers: think twice before following the advice on three-piece suits in the January issue too closely. While we’re all for the return of vested interests, proper tailoring is absolutely essential when it comes to adding the extra element. You do not want your shirt and tie peeking out between the vest and trousers, and nor should your waistband be on public view, as has happened to GQ’s unfortunate model pictured here. Without a smooth, uninterrupted vest-to-trouser transition, “the entire elegance of a three-piece suit is destroyed,” as the great Alan Flusser notes. For this reason, low-slung pants, as on display in GQ, do not work on a three-piece, and belt loops have no place here either; side tabs are preferable, and braces are of course the classic choice.

This isn’t to say the January GQ is a total loss »

01/11/08 ·

Dept. of Corrections

Vested Interest

The Vest Struts Its Stuff

Just as designers and the likes of GQ try to convince men to get back into three-piece suits this season, the trend-happy New York Times Styles section is taking the contrarian route, advising readers to forego the whole hog and simply sport the vest.

In the process, however, they unfairly blame the demise of the three-piece suit back in the day on the wristwatch »

01/11/08 ·

Scene

Kempt Man of the Hour: Brad Pitt

pitt

Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.

The New York Times may feel no affection for it, but Brad Pitt seems solidly behind the three-piece suit surge judging by what he wore to the 13th Annual Critics’ Choice Awards in L.A. the other night. Of course there are two mitigating factors: a) he’s Brad Pitt, and b) his threads are by Tom Ford.

In other words, he doesn’t give a shit if some twit from the Times advises him to “ditch the suit.”»

01/30/08 ·

Scene

Kempt Man of the Hour: Ryan Gosling

MOTH_gosling

Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.

Out of all the Hollywood heavies stalking the red carpet at the 14th Annual SAG Awards the other night, bearded Canuck Ryan Gosling stood out for his superlative sartoriality.

Gosling, a Chet Baker fan and accomplished jazz guitarist in his own right, sported one of those signature Tom Ford single-breasted, peak-lapel three-piece suits we’ve been musing on lately, in a new incarnation. His was a steel-hued silk and linen herringbone number with oversized patch pockets, worn with a white-collared tan and gray checked shirt and black leather shoes also from Ford’s closet. Adorning his lapel was a special tribute to unfortunate pal Heath Ledger in the form of a black ribbon designed by his sister Mandi, Gosling’s date for the evening.

More on today’s MOTH »

04/25/08 ·

Scene

Kempt Man of the Hour: Graydon Carter

MOTH_graydon_crop.jpg

Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.

A few months ago we appealed to Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter—in an avuncular fashion—to discard the double-breasted suits which added an unflattering layer to his majestic midsection; the wrong kind of camouflage, if you will.

He has apparently taken our advice to heart»

09/29/08 ·

Object

Three is the Magic Number

billyreid_crop.jpg

The three-piece suit can be hard to pull off without looking like Boss Tweed, but if you pull it off well—like this patterned gentleman—you’re in memorable territory. In style as in all things, fortune favors the brave. The trick here is matching the suit to the narrow plaid in the shirt, then setting the whole ensemble off with a diagonally thick-striped tie. They even tuck in the tie as a victory lap. Trust us, the GQ kids are drooling.

The suit comes courtesy of Alabama’s Billy Reid, which explains the southern flavor. It’s not a look that New York or Los Angeles have seen very much of. They tend to be more focused on Milan or Tokyo than Savannah, but it’s a shame.

As for the model, he might be preening, but he’s got reason to.

11/19/08 ·

Labeled

Who Are Yoo

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Hyden Yoo has been a New York boutique mainstay for some time, but after seeing his Spring/Summer ’09 collection, we’re ready for him to jump into the world of department store pop-ups and fast-fashion collaborations.

Between this angular three-piece and the asymmetrical cardigan after the jump, he’s earned a much higher profile than he has. Our only complaint is the Keffiyeh-esque scarf. It may be time to give that one back to the Palestinians.

See the rest of the line»