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A blog dedicated to the interesting, scandalous, useful and cutting edge in the world of men’s style, fashion and grooming.
Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.
New York Rangers roisterer-turned-Vogue intern Sean Avery gets away with lots of out-there antics. We draw the line, however, at silver boots. Apparently Hedi Slimane has been passing these things around as a joke and fashion victims like our awkward forward here have fallen for it hook, line and sinker.
Today, our friends at UrbanDaddy take a look at Stock, one of New York’s best vintage stores. It’s equally beloved as a source for designers, a reference point for devotees of Early American Menswear, and a secret weapon for aspiring MOTHs throughout the city. And naturally, there were more than a few items that caught our eye.
Pure Oscar Gold: There’s something about Fridays and Charilze Theron that just works. [Egotastic]
Bush Warrior: A Scottish pilot get’s top-brass approval for his handlebar mustache. Good to see there’s some progress in Afghanistan. [BBC]
Kick Up Some Dirt: Seeking a leather alternative to sneakers in these hot times? These boots are perfect for navigating the sand storms of Manhattan. [The Moment]
We Can’t Fix You: Aww, poor self-deifying mope rocker Chris Martin didn’t like the questions Radio 4 asked him. Bono never had to put up with this. [BBC]
Sweet Leaf: Hicky Freeman reopens, stoner iconography intact. [NYMag]
Fighting Over the Flow: Some sucka is suing the Jigga claiming he thieved his style. This may be the worst idea ever. [New Kerala]
So far they’re most popular among the hip-hop crowd, but Clarks Desert Boots are one item that’s ripe for crossover. The desert part means they’re impervious to sand, but the main appeal is the roomy, bubble-like front.
The Japanese have already caught on. Clarks is going halfsies with Japanese brand SHIPS to land in select Tokyo retailers with a rare ebony-leather version of the classic boot. They don’t look half bad…from here, anyway.
We’ve updated our must-haves—that’s the line of well-chosen items on your left—to bring in a new fall feeling and a helping hand for those of you scrambling for a good pipe. Add in some stomping boots, a classic holiday sweater and this rag & bone overcoat, and you should have enough swag to last you through the winter.
Consider your wishlists officially filled.
Chris Shipman/NYTWe go way back with the New York Times’ David Colman—through his strangely unmotivated obsessions with vests, shorts, and even pants—but we have to give him credit on this one. If you’ve managed to snag some Red Wing boots, it would be silly to let your pants cover them up.
We aren’t sure about those cowboy boots—although Mr. Benjamin might disagree—but this is a general trend we’ve been seeing for some time. The beauty of the shorter pant leg that’s come into fashion over the past few years—we’re looking at you, Mr. Browne—isn’t that it shows a bit of ankle but that it perfectly frames your shoes. Now that the footwear has gotten bulkier, you need to hike your pants up even higher to get them out of the way.
As for where you should draw the line, we’d say galoshes are for rainstorms. But Mr. Colman might disagree…
We’ve had our eye on Quentin Tarantino’s Inglorious Bastards for a while now, but this snap is the first sign that it might be a breath of fresh air on the style front.
Bastards is Tarantino’s take on war movies—specifically The Dirty Dozen, which deserves a post all its own—and rumors have been swirling around it since the script leaked onto the internet. Since then, there’s been a steady stream of casting rumors, including The Office’s B. J. Novak as “the little one,” torturey director Eli Roth as Donny Donowitz a.k.a. “the Bear Jew,” and, of course, Mr. Jolie playing Lt. Aldo Raine, the group’s leader. In other words, it’s classic Tarantino madness, with equal doses of ultra-violence, obscure filmic references and general profanity.
And anyone interested in army boots and coarse wool coats is about to get a big boost of inspiration…and maybe even sales.
Apparently we aren’t the only ones with our eyes on desert boots. The latest Common Projects line just went up with the selfsame shoe tucked in among the usual leather shell-toes and upscale Chucks.
Mr. Varvatos cannot be far behind.
A Continuous Lean’s Japan jaunt has unearthed a lot of good stuff, but this is our favorite so far.
Classic Americana brand Red Wing has been making this model for the Japanese model exclusively. Of course, it’s still stitched together in good old Red Wing, MN, but it’s a little stocker and smaller to accommodate Japanese feet. And, of course, we imagine it looks quite a bit different in a culture that’s more used to sneakers and oxfords. Stuff like this is rugged enough too be eye-catching in Los Angeles. We can’t imagine what they make of it in Tokyo.
As expected, Japan is already making a play to be the go-to source for Americana. Exhibit A: the latest line from Tokyo-based Hare, which delves into both workwear and the previously unnamed mountainwear, which consists mostly of flannel and nylon vests.
As is becoming the rule with Japanese designs, it’s familiar but stripped down enough to seem a few steps ahead of the stateside curve. There’s a lot of emphasis on scarves and boots, but somebody has to pick up the accessory slack.
As anyone who’s been perusing our must-haves knows, we’ve got a soft spot for Yuketen Herringbone Boots, but actually finding a pair can be quite a task. Luckily, the rest of the world seems to be catching up.
Acquire put us onto this similar pair from UK brand Maharishi. It’s not quite as good…but you won’t have to hire out a personal shopper just to find one.
Of all the boots we’ve talked about, this is pretty near the top of our list. From New England’s own L. L. Bean (American List-approved!), this Maine Hunting Shoe is one of the original creek-walkers, and the basis for a small mail order empire.
And if you know someone’s shoe size well enough, it might not be a bad thing to leave on their doorstep in a month or two…
We’ve been pushing Yuketen Boots (and the occasional imitator) for a while now, but it looks like the plaid-fortified work boot may be growing into a full-fledged trend.
These Rehancer boots swap the gray tweed-ish pattern for something closer to flannel, but it’s a familiar look. Unlike normal work boots, these are probably trouble if you wear them with actual flannel…but otherwise it’s just making a woodsy boot even woodsier.
Oregon’s really on a roll lately. Winn Perry—previously known as the northwestern source for Sovereign Beck ties—just reminded us that they’re also the northwestern source for Alden shoes, one of the best cobblers still producing shoes in America.
Naturally, the best work comes from the custom shop, but anyone passing through Oregon should stop by if they want to see what modern American leatherworking looks like. Of course, if you’re closer to New York, we know a place there too.
Via BenhastenIf so motivated, you could probably pin this picture down the particular month in the mid-70s. Between the rugged blazer, an extra-wide collar and what may or may not be cowboy boots, it’s hardly a current look. But we’re ready for at least part of it to come back.
Now that t-shirts are as common as jeans, this particular brand of cowboy gentility is ripe for a comeback. It’s rustic, old-fashioned and uniquely American all at once. We’d want to shift around the lapels and throw in a few modern twists, naturally, but this is one corner of the 70s that’s due for a revival.
Timberland has been turning out solid workwear boots since long before it was popular, but they seem to be taking to the movement remarkably well.
These Counterpane Chukkas (via acquire) aren’t quite ready for a day at the lumber mill, but there are heavier boots for that. These are more akin to what the same mill worker might wear to church: cleaner, but still unmistakably raw.
Big Black Boots usually fit into what might charitably be called “the industrial look,” but when it’s this cold, you may be able to work them into your wardrobe a bit more subtly.
It’s not a formal look, so we’d keep them as far away from your suit as possible, but when you’re trudging through the snow on your off-hours, you’ll be glad to have something heavy between your toes and the outside world—and it may match with your puffy coat better than you think. Like we always say, the right clothes for the circumstances will always be stylish.
And if you’re wondering which boots are the right ones, these Adam Kimmels don’t look too bad. Provided you don’t mind paying in Euros.
This time of year, it pays to have a pair of snow-ready shoes handy. They probably won’t be the best-looking thing in your closet, but they’ll spare you the trouble of galoshes and get you through the slushy time of year with all your finer footwear intact.
At the capsule show, Gourmet showed us some of the best examples we’ve seen so far, along with a respectable showing of straight sneakers. Their zippered shoes—which we keep wanting to describe as “spaceman shoes”—are definitely a good idea, but the crown jewel is to the right. Look at the matching rubber bottoms and you’ll start to get the idea. This is the first time we’ve seen a shoe that could genuinely call L. L. Bean an influence.
Score another one for Maine.
It’s one of the less useful rules of style, but worth remembering: If you’re a rock star, you can get away with just about anything. There are still limits though, and these boots might just fall outside them.
Made for Justin Tranter of the Semi-Precious Weapons, they’re a size 12 with a patent leather model still in the works. We love glam rock as much as the next guy, but the trick is usually to come off like an androgynous alien, not a cross-dressing off-duty policeman.
And it’s not 1972 anymore.
A good high-top boot is always welcome, but these caught our eye mostly because they come from Japan’s Lad Musician label.
We’d call the cut Italian, but we’re all cosmopolitans these days anyway. But given that the rest of Lad’s equipage looks like post-Armani streetwear, they look like they’re poised for more interesting things in the future.
We’ll certainly be keeping an eye on them.
It’s been awhile since we checked in with southern gentleman Billy Reid, but he’s been busy…even if it’s not stuff you’ll see on the runways this week.
Last week, we caught a peek at what he has in the pipeline, and it’s more than enough to hold our attention. Judging by what we saw, we can look forward to some light jackets, green wool caps, large-check flannel, and a pair of buckle-heavy boots Mr. Reid took the time to sketch out for us. We even got the tailor himself to pose for us, and from the looks of his outfit, he’s an even bigger flannel fan than we are.
via Material ReviewThe wardrobe is a toolbox. You’ve got suits for work (sometimes), a set of lazy Sunday gear, and a whole range in between for wherever you end up. Style isn’t a matter of owning nice things so much as properly diagnosing each situation and gearing up appropriately.
All of which goes a long way towards explaining how hiking boots got to where they are today. You wouldn’t want to wear them to a cocktail party, but if you’ve got a cabin somewhere, it would be hard to do better than these.
The folk at J. Crew have been on quite a hitting streak lately, and it look like they have every intent of keeping it going.
We got our hands on their latest fall catalog, and once again, we’re impressed. There are the usual assortment of old school ties and cardigans that J. Crew made their name on, but this time there’s a more rustic edge too, with a few of the usual easy-iron button-ups traded for chambray workshirts.
As usual, the real gems are in the collaborations. They keep up old collabs with Mackintosh Coats and Alden Shoes, but our favorite is the boots from W. C. Russell Moccasin Company out of Berlin, Wisconson of all places. It would be a pretty good find for a boutique, but for a national brand it’s practically a statement of principles.
Bringing heritage brands onto a larger stage is what the workwear movement is all about…and bringing a bit more chambray into the world isn’t so bad either.
The 70s were a pretty fantastic time for American film, but the style legacy has been a little more mixed.
This shot from the Black Sunday premiere circa 1977 should remind you why. (Cheers to WWD for digging it up.) Between the suede bomber, gloriously billowing pant legs, and omnipresent Italian boots, the disco era is certainly in full swing. That’s Sydney Pollack in the middle, with his shirt unbuttoned to the sternum, according to the custom of the time.
Say what you will, but they definitely knew how to pull off a blazer.
Go Jump in the Lake: Nothing like a warm day and a swimwear collection. [FreshnessMag]
Shepard Fairey has a Posse: Mr. Obey gets a softly glowing writeup from the art press. [ArtNet]
Continuing to Shake It: The hunt for a cheaper Polaroid is on. We’ll save this medium yet! [NYTimes]
Give ‘em the Boot: Another day, another good pair of work boots. [CoolHunting]
There’s something to be said for taking a couple months to break in a pair of work boots and earning a few blisters along the way. But on the off-chance you don’t feel like putting in the hours, you may want to explore the vintage option.
Seattle’s Blackbird just reloaded their stock of vintage Red Wings, and New York’s Stock has been dealing in second-hand stompers for some time. We aren’t usually fans of the vintage shoe market, but when it’s something as durable as work boots, we’ll make an exception. No matter how beat up they look, it’s a safe bet they’ve got at least another decade in them.
You can also try digging through grandpa’s closet…assuming he’s your size.
Fifth Wave: Mary-Louise Parker is empowered enough to bake a few pies naked and be ok with that. [Esquire]
Tweet Memories: Buckingham Palace signs up for twitter; a nation cringes in discomfort. [Vanity Fair]
The Boots of Freedom: Enormous pre-distressed boots continue their march of trendhood. [We Are the Market]
Got Me On My Knees, Leila: The best Burkina Fasan animated short you’ll see all year. Actually, maybe all decade. [Vulture]
The appeal of army boots is as much functional as sartorial, so the usual ad tricks—people wearing them, for instance—don’t work quite as well. Luckily, you can always get creative…
These spots for the French Legion-approved Palladium Boots line explore New York’s abandoned spaces, some of which are pretty fantastic and all of which require some pretty rugged footwear. The campaign comes with a documentary on a few of the more interesting spots, and it’ll presumably tell you how to find them in the bargain. And if the style seems familiar, there’s a reason: the whole thing was cooked up by Virtue, the advertising wing of Vice Magazine. No wonder Brooklyn’s so well-represented…
By now, you’ve probably got a few ideas about winter coats, but the coming snows require a pretty specialized set of footwear too. Our suggestion: something thick, heavy and completely impenetrable.
This newly arrived Wolverine Montgomery Boot fits the bill quite nicely, with thick leather and an inch and a half of rubber separating you from the slushy wilds. Throw in a rust-belt history that rivals Red Wing, and you’ve got a bonafide American stomper. Hopefully you’ve also got an industrial-strength shoehorn handy…
Palladium Boots generally deals in heavy cloth-and-rubber boots, so we were pleased to see them moving in a sneaker-y direction with this Pampa Boot. It’s essentially a beefed-up version of the Chuck Taylor, but the rugged rubber bottom means it won’t fall apart after a year like every latter-day Chuck we’ve ever owned. The result is something light enough to wear through the summer, but heavy enough to take a few concerts’ worth of stomping. The light canvas version hasn’t found its way to retailers just yet, but if you can’t wait, you can find a heavier ones here.
Alden has turned out quite a lot of boutique collaborations in the past year, but this might be our favorite—and the first shoe we’ve considered dropping more than $400 on in quite some time.
It’s called the Greenwich Boot, and it’s the result of some spectacular taste on the part of the West Village cobbler Leffot. It combines just about all of our favorite dress-casual moves: ornate wingtipping, a navy wash, and waterproofed nubuc in place of the usual impenetrable cordovan. And, of course, it’s got the Barrie welting that means, with regular resoleing and the occasional boost to the waterproofing, it’ll last just about forever.
And with only 20 pairs kicking around, we’d call it an extremely limited edition.
