We’re quite partial to soccer shoes, but aside from the negative Samba, there hasn’t been a whole lot of innovation. It may be time to look to other hemispheres…

These Brazilian sneakers came onto our radar by way of Oi Polloi, stitched together from fair trade cotton and local rubber and dubbed Veja Taua. The shape might look familiar, but it’s lighter and simpler than anything you’d pick up at the usual sneaker shop. And if you opt for a suitably tropical color scheme, they might even guess where it came from.

The summer tie is one of our favorite items in the seasonal style continuum, and Gitman Vintage is looking more and more like the best place to get one. These just arrived at Blackbird for $68 a pop, and while they’re a little skinnier than our normal preference, but when it’s large-check cotton, we’ll make an exception.

We’re always on the lookout for a new stripped-down sneaker—especially now that Chucks and Vans are on the low swing of trendiness—but we may have found one with a good deal more heritage than we’re used to.

Ladies and Gentlemen, Warrior Footwear»

We’re still sorting through all the capsule goodies we’ve collected in the past two days, but we thought we’d let this one slip out to whet your appetite. It’s from the Italian semi-streetwear brand Camo, who seems to have grown up in a hurry.

Instead of last season’s quilted coats and cardigans, this season’s line goes direct for the shabby 70s suit vibe, which just happens to be a sentimental favorite of ours.

This burgundy number is our favorite—the double breast and extra-wide peak lapels should let you know it’s ironic—but there’s plenty more where that came from. It might be the most casual suit we’ve seen this side of…well, a leisure suit. It’s a pretty twee move, but there’s nothing wrong with that.

Stay tuned; there’s plenty more where that came from.

See more of Camo after the jump»

It’s been a while since we checked in with John Varvatos, but it looks like he’s kept busy. These two items come from his newly unveiled leather goods collection. We’re not sure how well it fits in to his What-Would-Mick-Jagger-Do aesthetic—of course, Keith’s already pledged to Louis Vuitton—but it’s hard to go wrong with Italian leather luggage. We recommend the ones without the skull embroidery.

Engineered Garments’ latest line of casually rumpled elegance is definitely worth a look, and it provides some prime trendcasting fodder. The big loser? Ironing boards. The big winner? The plaid tie.

To be fair, plaid neckties have been a growing presence for some time now—not least on the racks at J.Crew—but this kind of wide, large-check neckwear is more the kind of thing you’d get from J.Press, and it rarely gets this much love from the fashion-forward crowd. Matching it with your pants like this gentleman is still a pretty advanced move, but it’s good to know Mr. Suzuki’s still got love for the preppies.

The beloved Swedes at Fjällräven launched their eCommerce site last night, which means those ubiquitous backpacks are one step closer, and we finally got a chance to peruse some of their more functional items, like this Oban parka.

It’s the same waxed cotton that keeps the packs sealed up, but with a fuzzy inner shell warm enough to get you through a Scandanavian winter. It’s a lot more low-tech than it looks, which might be its biggest strength. After years of seeing Barbour on the backs of outdoorsy scenesters for so long, it’ll be nice to see a fresh Swedish version.

We expect a lot from clothes. So when we’re steeling ourselves to buy something, it’s not enough for it to just sit there. We want it to stride down the steps of a preparatory academy, worn by someone with striking cheekbones.

So today, Ralph Lauren’s holding the first ever online Rugby runway show, but they’re swapping the usual Chelsea showroom for the digital confines of Rugby.com. That also means some crazy 3D settings and direct eCommerce links to every item on show—in case the commercial urge happens to strike you. One standout so far is the buffalo-check-lined toggle coat, but we’re also glad to see suspenders making such a showing. Don’t say you weren’t warned.

Other than periodic sea changes—most recently from silk to wool and from wide to narrow—the tie world doesn’t have much in the way of innovation. Which makes the exceptions all the more interesting.

C. Chauchat is a tie line based around one of the more interesting fabric innovations we’ve seen in quite some time. The pictures don’t quite do them justice, but here’s the gist: classic fabrics like seersucker and checked poplin covered up by a sheer layer of cotton voile. The result is an item that looks a little different every time you glance at it, and probably one of the more compelling fabrics in your closet.

So far it’s only at two shops—Bblessing in New York and Creatures of Comfort in L.A.—but we won’t be surprised if that number starts growing before the winter’s up.

Last time we checked in with Swatch, they were cataloguing the wristwear choices of Bond villains and tweeting up a storm, but it looks like they’ve made a fair bit of progress in the meantime.

The classic brand just debuted five new sport models, including this gray number aptly titled “Sign in the Sky.” They’re not quite as villainous as we would have liked, but you can never have too many stripped-down sports watches on hand. If you’ve given up on the vintage watch hunt—and you’ve got understandable moral objections to checking the time on your phone—this might be a pretty good place to start.

Trovata’s been overshadowed by their former collaborators Shipley & Halmos these past few seasons, but they’re still a pretty reliable source for breezy West Coast gear. This Miro shirt, for instance, is the kind of garment they can turn out pretty reliably, a linen-weave summer shirt lined up for their Spring/Summer 2010 line.

It’s not enough to call a comeback, but if they meet January with a whole line of these items, they’ll definitely raise a few eyebrows—even more than the storytelling stunts that got them noticed in the first place. Four years in, they may finally be hitting their stride.

We got a look at the J.Crew Spring/Summer 2010 preview today, and in addition to adding Hill-Side ties and Clarks Wallabees to their stable of collaborators and buddy brands, they’ve kept things moving in the same solid direction as the last few seasons. If it ain’t broke…

There’s a new navy sharkskin version of the Ludlow Suit and a reliably pleasing assortment of chambray, but we also really liked the rugged Fireman’s Jacket, a light, clasping jacket that should be the perfect antidote to summer rainstorms. (No word yet on how it holds up against fire.)

See more of the new line»

For 126 years, Houston shirtmaker Hamilton has been making some of the best custom dress shirts on the market. And now, for the first time, they’re offering something straight off-the-rack—the new Hamilton 1883 line.

The shirts don’t sacrifice on quality (they’re still made in the U.S., and are as soft as you’re likely to find), and include smart details like western-style stitching and dedicated pockets for pens. (Or, we suppose, more illicit things—we smell a trend.) And we’re not just being because we did some of the modeling—though we suppose it doesn’t hurt.

They grow up so fast…

We got a peek at the latest Shipley & Halmos gear this week, and it sees the two-year-old line growing into a playfully poppy style. (The pics here don’t really do some of the fabrics, and the easy feel of the collection justice.) There’s still the same understated cosmopolitan vibe, but now the cardigans are a little longer, the colors are a little more daring, and the whole collection is a whole lot more wearable and assured. It might be the best stuff we’ve seen from them since their debut collection. Look for it to hit stores in January…you might even see us in line.

See more pics after the jump»

We just got a peek at the latest Fall/Winter gear from southern gentleman Billy Reid, and it looks like he’s been spending a little time on the water.

He hasn’t lost his affinity for seersucker suits and elegantly cut slacks, but now there are a few more nautical pieces mixed in, including a Roguish anchor sweater and an eye-catching bright yellow slicker, which might be our favorite of his outerwear pieces. It’s more Newport than Tupelo, but we’re certainly not complaining.

See the rest of the line here»

A lot of brands talk about bringing function to style, but when you’re talking about your outer layer, that function means a whole lot more than just a cleaner stitch or a tougher fabric. It means keeping you dry during Manhattan’s monsoon season, shiver-free through your next heli-skiing jaunt, and thoroughly protected from any element you happen to run across.

Which is where Aether comes in…

Good news for Varvatos fans who can’t make it down to CBGBs: The rock star designer just launched a newly redesigned site and, more importantly, an eCommerce shop, offering gear pulled direct from his runway shows. The soundtrack? “Sharp Dressed Man,” naturally.

European shoes usually vary between boxy British brogues and the slimmer Italian dress shoes favored by Mr. Ford. But it looks like Spain has a few tricks of their own…

Magnanni may be operating under an Italian name, but they’ve been using Spanish designs and cobbling knowhow for upwards of 50 years, including a trick called the Bologna Construction that uses a glovelike layer of leather in place of an insole—a pretty good idea, as far as we’re concerned. If you’re curious to see it yourself, they’ll be taking designs for custom models at Bergdorf Goodman on October 2nd and 3rd.

Rogues Gallery just put this season’s fall/winter gear for sale online and, as you may have guessed from the lookbooks, it’s pretty good stuff.

Their take on the button-down already has us preparing for a nautical life, but our favorite item might be this unstructured cotton jacket. Unlike a fair number of its counterparts, it looks rugged enough to spend a few hours in a cabin-bound suitcase and emerge in wearable condition. Of course, those rough seams are getting to be an RG trademark, but this might be the best use of them we’ve seen so far.

Tom Ford’s latest Fall line has a lot of noteworthy goodies—including Moncler-style bubblegooses, windowpane suits and Matthau-esque check undershirts—but what stood out to us was this mildly costume-y velvet-and-plaid ensemble.

Most of the garments in question can be traced back to Mr. Ford’s well-documented yen for the mid-70s, but the tartan pants reach all the way back to the days of Leave it to Beaver. The jacket’s pure Hefner—familiar territory, to be sure—but it’s easy to forget that Hugh started out in the 50s too, even if it was more the decade of Henry Miller than Fred McMurray. Apparently Mr. Ford remembers.

Japanese workwear is one of our most rewarding obsessions, so we’re always interested in the latest crop.

Luckily, we just got a peek at a few Spring/Summer 2010 items from the folks at Post Overalls, and it’s enough to get our depression-era nostalgia going one more time. There’s a Suzuki-esque vest, an unstructured white jacket and a full complement of busy vintage patterns. Our favorite is the leafy green button-up…but it’s a crowded field.

See more from Post Overalls»

One of the downsides of seeing lines on the sample racks is that most of them look a whole lot different in person. General Idea in particular specializes in gear that can be daunting until you see someone pull it off right. For instance, a designer…

We were lucky enough to have General Idea’s creative director Bumsuk Choi stop by Kempt HQ to show us this jumpsuit from their upcoming Spring/Summer 2010 line. In case you can’t see, that’s a single double-breasted garment from shoulders to ankles. It’s also available as shorts and in trenchcoat-style variations, but we prefer the understated black, especially if you’re wearing it over a black t-shirt.

The Scottish sweater-maker Inverallan has been getting a fair amount of blog love in the past few months, but the gear itself is still pretty hard to come by without crossing an ocean—either to the UK or Japan. Fortunately, all good things make it stateside eventually…

J. Crew’s Frank Muytjens let slip in a recent interview that Inverallan’s Aran fisherman sweater is next up for a J. Crew collab this fall, which means cable-knit cardigans are about to make a serious play at trendhood. And by the time cold weather comes around again, we’ll probably be beating down the doors for thick wool like this. Just don’t call it a grandpa sweater.

A British marque called John Smedley came across our sale radar today with 30% off at their online shop, and we were a bit surprised to peruse the selection. Unlike Anglo designers like Paul Smith, who occasionally seem like they’re making Britishness up as they go along, this is what well-dressed, comfortably middle class Brits actually wear—which can make it quite the statement for an anglophilic man of style.

Smedley’s popular enough to make it to their third century—eat your heart out, Brooks Brothers—and they didn’t do it by being fashion-forward or taking any more risks than they had to. That means some of the gear is a little questionable, but there’s good stuff if you’re willing to dig. Our pick is this Gideon polo, which manages to make Mr. Smedley seem like Fred Perry’s older, less chavvy cousin.

We just caught a peek at Burkman Brothers’ new Spring/Summer 2010 line, and we like what we see from our favorite Bali/Ivy League/resortwear-loving brothers. Namely, great new shorts, their debut tie collection, and a welcome riff on the linen shirt, along with the same old madras.

The new: a new set of patterned shirts (as seen on the gentleman to the left) along with their first collection of linen shirts (a staple for most sandy vacations and a nice compliment to all that madras) and their first stab at neckwear (which land somewhere between Ward Cleaver and Rudyard Kipling—not a bad combination, if you ask us).

They’ve also cut their shorts a little trimmer and introduced a jersey-lined yellow pair that we’re eagerly anticipating hitting Barney’s in January. And since this is still Burkman Brothers, there are more exclusive plaids sourced from the brothers’ latest trip to India, more great details from Doug and Ben and more random name tags sewn in summer camp-style.

All we need is a mai tai…

See the new gear from Burkman Brothers»

We snuck in for an exclusive peek at Rogues Gallery’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection, and the words “more of the same” have never sounded so sweet. The biggest surprise is the madras suit, which looks like it would be more at home at the fairgrounds than a fishing boat, but the rest of the gear shows off the same faded, loose-knit, maritime, worn-in vibe that’s made Rogues a favorite. Some pics after the jump of their new Fair Isle sweaters, t shirt goodness and a showstopping cotton navy sweater.

Take a look at the gear»

We managed to snag a copy of Norsea’s latest lookbook at the (capsule) show, and the results are nothing short of exciting. For one, the khaki blazer is one northern staple we’re happy to adopt.

The rest of the line has highlights like Liberty-style mock turtlenecks and a few new takes on the denim jacket—aside from the Stamford denim blazer we saw at the show. The cleverest trick may be the styling on the Dunes jacket: The three-button blazer is worn with the bottom two buttons fastened. We wouldn’t advise trying it without a jacket that’s tailored for the purpose, but it’s one of the more daring moves we’ve seen in a lookbook recently.

See more of the line»

Hiroshi Awai’s Creep label was last seen with heavy flannels, work boots and toggle coats, but it looks like he’s getting back into the yachting scene.

His S/S 2010 collection has a few nautical sweaters for the rugged at heard, but mostly its liberty print shorts, deck-ready button-ups and some of the better cut three-button suits we’ve seen in a while. The most interesting item might be this high-cropped denim jacket, which uses a bit of tailoring know-how to give even the most rugged item in the American wardrobe a touch of twee. Just don’t take it on deck.

See more of the line»

The recent enthusiasm for heritage brands is bringing out the best in just about everyone. Case in point: Cole Haan is getting back to their roots as Chicago cobblers with a smaller label named Cole, Rood, & Haan that focuses more on worn leathers, wooden welting and classic American styles. The Fall/Winter gear (that’s the dark leather shoes in back) should be hitting shops in just a few weeks.

One of our favorite tie brands just resurfaced, after a brief stay in the web-less wilderness. The brand in question is Kendi, which dropped off the radar at the end of last year, but just reappeared in Gargyle’s new pop-up shop, and nobody’s happier than we are.

They’re the polar opposite of Vittorio’s new line: impossibly skinny, roughly textured and generally unsuitable for anything resembling work. But we’ve always been a bit more concerned about our evening appearance anyway…

It’s been a while since we heard from the power tie, but apparently it’s alive and well.

These are from Vittorio J’s new Exclusives Collection, which is taking a shot at bringing high-quality silk, Italian oil treatments and extremely wide cuts back into the mainstream. In other words, it’s more for the folks at Goldman Sachs than the skinny/knit crowd…and at the moment that’s not such a crowded field. These models get extra points for something called a “saddle stitch,” a thread running down the back that lets you straighten them out with just a tug. The bad news? Each style is limited to just a few items, to keep things appropriately exclusive. Curious parties can pick one up at Imparali Custom Tailors.

The Japanese line Whereabouts just sent around pics of their F/W 09 collection, and they would appear to be fully in the grips of our favorite decade, the 1970s.

This woodsy look was what caught our eye most immediately, but there are also Bjorn Borg-ish v-necks, velvet blazers and something that looks an awful lot like a leisure suit. The look isn’t a full blown trend just yet, but with a few sunglasses and little help from Scott Sternberg, it will be soon enough.

If you want to know what you’re getting in a piece of clothing, designer sketches can tell you a lot more than the average picture. So it only makes sense we’re starting to see a bit more of them.

Through what must have been an impressive feat of espionage, SlamXHype (via h(y)r) got their hands on Daiki Suzuki’s sketches for the upcoming Woolrich Woolen Mills fall line.

It’s impressive stuff, as we’ve come to expect from Suzuki, but his designs are also especially well suited to sketching. Without distracting things like color and fabric getting in the way, Suzuki’s patches and curves start to look more mathematical than nostalgic, and the whole enterprise takes on a workmanlike air. Which we’d say is only appropriate.

See more sketches»

Steven Alan tends to be a pretty understated designer, so we were to happy to see him take on a few of our favorite grace notes in his latest collection. For one, there’s a pleasing prevalence of tweed. For another, it looks like Mr. Alan is bringing back the flat cap, the preferred headgear of newsies everywhere. September can’t get here soon enough.

There are remarkably few brands that can accommodate a zombie-themed collection…so it’s probably best to give the more Romero-esque designs their own label.

Rogues Gallery’s Alex Carlton has apparently been nursing an appreciation for the undead for quite some time. Carlton just debuted Never Sleep as a sister brand to Rogues Gallery with a less nautical, more brain-seeking vibe. And for the more subtle aficionados, there’s a whole string of blazers and jackets in an undead-friendly black.

The club collar resurgence continues with the latest collection from Bespoken.

They throw in a few spread collars and cufflink-style buttons too—and naturally the suits themselves are pretty impeccable—but the short club collar is starting to be a necessity for more adventurous menswear labels…which usually means its time to add one to your closet.

If you’re really inspired, you can even skip the tie.

The performance parka has a lot of potential—especially now that we’re headed into the rainy season—but so far nobody’s been willing to put their chips behind an ultra-high end version. At least nobody outside of Japan…

Visvim deal in goretex rather than the more trendy waxed cotton, but there’s still some serious tailoring involved. This poncho splices the intricate check in just about every way possible, keeping things just this side of optical illusion, and add in a cigarette pouch on the sleeve for good measure.

Of course, that still doesn’t mean stateside shoppers are ready to line up for ponchos costing upwards of $500…but stranger things have happened.

See more of visvim»

Even though you’ll almost never see them on shelves, Japanese lines are worth a look or two for the ways they comment on stateside style—both on purpose and by accident.

This S/S 09 line from Japan’s Lounge Lizard is the perfect example. They give the usual khaki and denim a pleasantly washed out flavor, along with a few salmon-colored jackets just faded enough to work. Throw in a Browne-ish striped suit, and you’ve got yourself a collection that’s foreign enough to .

And while they might be inappropriately indulging in the deep V-neck…we’ll forgive them just this once.

See the rest of the line»

By now, Paul Smith is big enough that we rely on him for our opinion of England overall. And based on his latest lookbook, it seems like things are getting a bit sleazy over there.

We don’t mind Smith trying out a pair of Nantucket reds—we knew he’d get around to them eventually—but these latest items seem more directed at early 60s-era beachgoers than his usual urban dandy demographic. They’re impeccably cut, of course, but it’s still a pretty big departure for our Mr. Smith. Did he get tired of the pastel Technicolor vibe so quickly?

Maybe he’s been catching up on his Mad Men?

See our picks from the lookbook»

The folk at J. Crew have been on quite a hitting streak lately, and it look like they have every intent of keeping it going.

We got our hands on their latest fall catalog, and once again, we’re impressed. There are the usual assortment of old school ties and cardigans that J. Crew made their name on, but this time there’s a more rustic edge too, with a few of the usual easy-iron button-ups traded for chambray workshirts.

As usual, the real gems are in the collaborations. They keep up old collabs with Mackintosh Coats and Alden Shoes, but our favorite is the boots from W. C. Russell Moccasin Company out of Berlin, Wisconson of all places. It would be a pretty good find for a boutique, but for a national brand it’s practically a statement of principles.

Bringing heritage brands onto a larger stage is what the workwear movement is all about…and bringing a bit more chambray into the world isn’t so bad either.

A preview of J. Crew’s fall stock»

You might remember Clae from the capsule show a few months back, but there’s a new line making the rounds. This time, it’s a bit more streetwear-heavy, but they still understand one of the cardinal rules of modern sneakering: keep it colorful.

This time around, that means pastel greens, bright yellows and powder blues, but nothing loud enough to upset the rest of your ensemble. The hightops may be a bit bulkier than you’re used to, but we’d say it’s just a season or two ahead of its time.

See more from Clae»

Workwear makes for strange bedfellows.

It wasn’t too long ago the puffy jacket was bette noir among the slim Soho crowds. But after a couple of decades of exile, they’ve finally seen the light on Penfield again. (At least, as long as it’s black.)

This goosedown comes from a collaboration with Rag & Bone that tones down the usual plaids and adds zipoff sleeves, but keeps the same ursine profile that makes usually Penfield coats so much fun. There’s also a hooded model for women and a vest for earlier in the fall, both in similarly monochromatic form. The whole batch hits Rag & Bone stores in august, but if you can’t wait… there’s always the older version.

See the rest of the collab after the jump»

We’ve gushed about Japan’s N.Hoolywood before, but this is the first time we’ve seen a runway show, and we’re cautiously excited.

There are a few too many synthetics and a few too many Blade Runner moments, but they nail the Old Hollywood look better than anyone else we’ve run across. It’s also the first time we’ve seen varsity jackets sharing rack space with patterned ponchos, which suggests they might want to give their muse a tighter leash next time around. But in all, it’s a pretty promising bit of work.

Take a look around»

For some reason, A.P.C. seems to be on vacation.

Their latest summer collection is practically a handbook for the young and tweedy Ibiza crowd. It’s quite a thing to nail down a particular age and moment—Ralph Lauren started out in much the same way—but it’s interesting that this is where the francophone label has found themselves.

The fall lines always seemed more reserved than their stateside counterparts. These were clothes for schoolkids, but mostly the ones in the library, which makes this beachbound hedonistic turn more than a little surprising.

Then again, that’s what summer vacation is for.

See the rest of the line»

The big black raincoat has fallen out of favor lately, but it only takes a few well-placed tweaks to bring it back into style. In this case, it’s a few extra pockets and few sashlike tweaks around the shoulders.

We recently got a look at Endovanera’s upcoming A/W line and we thought we’d pass along a few of the better items, including this black Mafia Trench. On the heels of an Urban Outfitters collab, the label seems to be growing out of its black-on-black inclinations and into a broader range of styles, including a few nautical pieces.

Who knows; by next season they may even give Pantone a call.

See Endovanera’s take on nautical pants»

The high-tech fabric game can be a tough one. It rules out any retro influences off the bat, leaving designers to more or less fend for themselves. And, when you’re splitting your time (and your fabrics) between clothes and bags, the risk of looking like Matrix castoffs is real.

Acronym manages it as well as any we’ve seen, mostly by sticking with a somewhat baggier take on clothes that are already staples. It looks like the fabric reacts badly to being tucked in…but we’re not complaining. It’s hard to focus on the perfect drape when you’re building rainproof, wearproof, and all around indestructible weaves.

And, unlike most of what you see on this site, these clothes are best appreciated in the midst of a rainstorm.

See more from Acronym»

Fresh on the heels of their CFDA nod, Band of Outsiders posted another video projection full of thick plastic shades, madras trenchcoats, and trilbies as far as the eye can see.

It’s nothing too different from last time around, but we’re glad to see a few more suspenders get in there, and the welcome addition of topsiders to their lookbook. And they still do men’s shorts better than just about anybody.

The hitting streak continues…

See the video»

The pocketed dress shirt is an endangered species. At most, you’ll see a single, open breast pocket, but add in a couple button-flaps and you’re in work shirt territory, and it’s farther than most are willing to go.

But not everyone, apparently. We just got our hands on these pics from the recently relaunched British firm E. Tautz, and they’re boasting more prominent pockets than we’ve seen in some time. Of course, because of the British connection, we’re guessing they were after the colonial look, but it’s still an awful lot to have on your chest. Even if it looks a lot better than we would have guessed.

See more of E. Tautz»

There are a lot of different ways to dress for cold, but the “British gent invades Poland” look is one of the more interesting ones we’ve seen.

Nom de Guerre’s F/W ’09 collection mixes a wide range of styles, but what sticks out for us is the rough fur boot covers that look like they were lifted straight from Genghis Khan. The usual prim British tailoring and preppy shawl collars still apply, but now they look like they’re ready for the eastern front. Unlike 90% of winter collections, this one tries to outfit you for the coldest days of the year.

And a few infantry movements, while they’re at it.

Get a closer look at the mongol horde»

Helmets usually aim for a charmingly European nostalgia—much like the Vespas themselves—so the market is wide open for a few bubble-cases straight out of Flash Gordon.

Borsalino is an Italian heritage brand that takes a slightly different tack than the usual mod-inspired helmets by bringing in extra touches like fur and snakeskin-imprinted leather for a more adventurous take.

It makes sense—these are precision instruments, after all. Why not let all that technology show?

See more of the helmets»

The buttoned dress shirt is such a staple that it’s easy to overlook. That is, until an enterprising designer reminds you that it’s not all easy-irons fronts and spread collars.

Our friends at UrbanDaddy just turned us on to Lee Harkness Shirt Co., a New York shirtier (and American List candidate) with a few changes in mind. The label brings together designers Oliver Harkness (a famed vintage dealer) and Jussara Lee (a upscale woman’s designer) to create a middle ground somewhere between bespoke and vintage. The result is a line full of well-shaped club collars, tuxedo-esque pullover shirts, and shackets (high fashion for “shirt/jacket”) that give Freeman’s a run for their money, all available in sizes and made-to-measure.

More on Lee Harkness»

As your RSS feed can testify, Blue-collar nostalgia has gotten pretty hot lately. But while actual domestic production may be restricted to a smaller clique of labels, the iconography can still take you places.

Exhibit A: the latest line from BBlessing, a set of henleyed pullovers, dour pea coats, and appropriately gritty fingerless gloves. The sweaters especially bring out the spirit of declinist angst, but on a few items—the plaid dress shirts and tweed-y pants in particular—the BBlessing boys give away their twee origins. Not that we’re complaining; in fact, they’re to be some of the collection’s strongest pieces.

As for the industrial setting, it makes for a pretty striking photoset, but we doubt they’ll be cornering the dockworker demographic any time soon.

See the rest of the line»

Public School made a pretty big splash when they landed last year, but they’ve only been refining their look in the time since then.

There aren’t too many surprises in the latest collection—the big one is the introduction of a Thriller-esque red to their usually monochromatic palette—but they’re still the go-to label for anyone that wants a grittier take on modern style. There’s lots of leather jackets, a few chains, and a general no-nonsense attitude. For all the labels trying to make their models look good, Public School is still the only one that makes them look tough.

See more of Public School»

It’s hard for more wearable collections to break through, but Corpus seems to have what it takes.

The raingear-heavy line won this year’s Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation award for it’s Spring/Summer collection and should be getting a higher profile in due time. It may seem a bit tame for an award winner, but look closer and you’ll see smart nautical touches like buttons below the beltline on the pants, or the way they’ve cuffed the full-length pants just shy of clam-digging levels.

And as always, a good two-tone shoe can really take you places.

See the rest of the line»

Our favorite thing about B store is usually the small, rounded collars that always seem like the seedlings of a full-blown trend—something you might see in the window of Banana Republic ten years from now. But they may have learned a few new tricks.

Their latest line debuted this week at London Fashion Week, and it’s boasting a lot more than collars. From gun-holster-esque suspenders, dark-wash denim shirts and a pleasant reliance on cerulean blue, these Britons are finally coming into their own.

Eight more looks from b store»

We’ve always been on the side of precise tailoring, but it takes all kinds, and there are always a few new fits to try out.

Acne has been pushing clean, unbroken drapes as much as anyone outside of Japan, and we’re starting to come around. The typical dig is that they make you look like a clothes hanger—skin and bones, as our mother would say—but if the colors are right, you could do a lot worse. In this case, the colors are deep maroons and somber grays, which is about right.

And if you’ve ever passed through Stockholm, you’ll know why.

See more from the Swedes»

Simon Spurr turned out yet another solid collection for fashion week—you can see it behind him if you feel like straining, or see our pictures after the jump—but the surprise this time around isn’t the swagger but the source.

This time around, Spurr is assuring customers that 90% of the product is manufactured in Italy, using the finest materials possible. It’s a bold statement, and a sign of how seriously manufacturing is being taken these days, at least by some designers. And if it’s not in line with his current stated inspiration—the movie 2001—we won’t complain too loudly.

Anything that gets us a few more Mimosa-hued parkas is ok with us.

See more of Spurr’s latest line»

Last time we checked in with Mjolk, they were pushing discreet checks, small collars and Thom Browne-esque hem lengths.

This time around the pants are a bit looser and they’re a bit more adventurous with color—particularly the lemon hue that’s ended up on a few of their latest socks and shirts—but the basic aesthetic is the same. Which is fine by us.

See more of Mjolk»

It’s been awhile since we checked in with southern gentleman Billy Reid, but he’s been busy…even if it’s not stuff you’ll see on the runways this week.

Last week, we caught a peek at what he has in the pipeline, and it’s more than enough to hold our attention. Judging by what we saw, we can look forward to some light jackets, green wool caps, large-check flannel, and a pair of buckle-heavy boots Mr. Reid took the time to sketch out for us. We even got the tailor himself to pose for us, and from the looks of his outfit, he’s an even bigger flannel fan than we are.

See backstage for yourself»

Antonio Azzuolo’s been a solid designer and label for a while now, but judging by his latest work, the 70s are about to get a more cred.

We stopped by last night to see a.a.’s F/W ’09 series, and we were pleasantly surprised to see him indulging in some of our favorite sartorial quirks, like rope-shouldered blazers, double-breasted jackets, and our favorite of all, tweed. Add in a bit of swagger and the occasional polished shoe, and you’ve got yourself a design aesthetic. The fall can’t come soon enough…

See more of the line»

As American as it is, workwear has always been a good deal more popular in Japan—see Engineered Garments, the endless stream of Red Wing collabs—which means in addition to the domestic stalwarts who keep producing the way they did 80 years ago, there’s a generation of designers in Tokyo trying to put a futurist spin on things.

Comme Des Garcons is hardly the most rugged label on the map, but Junya Watanabe may have brought out the outdoorsman in them. You’ll have trouble getting hold of his latest collection unless you’re passing through Hong Kong this month—hey, you never know—but it’s interesting to watch the way it blends L. L. Bean-esque fishing gear with more urban nylon vests.

At the very least, they’ll be ready for the rain.

See more of the line»

Now that loose knits are taking off, it may be time to take another look at Scotland. They’ve been working on the loose sweater for a few centuries now, and mixed in with a Highland tweeds, it may the best equipment you can find for next winter.

Coventry is our favorite Scot so far. Coming from menswear vet Matthew Terry, the label combines traditional Shetland wools with a paint-it-black design aesthetic not that far from downtown staples like Comme Des Garcons.

They’re unveiling their F/W 09 line in a scant few weeks, but this sketch comes straight from Mr. Terry’s pad, which suggests there are a few plaid overcoats in our future.

See a few looks from previous lines»

We’re trads at heart, so we’re always happy to see someone putting a new spin on the staples of tradwear. (That would be the suit and the tuxedo, in that order.)

Viktor & Rolf slipped underneath our radar when they skipped out on the major runway shows, but by the looks of these press pics, we were missing out on quite a lot. The high-cuffed pants are straight out of the Browne playbook, but between the wildly patterned blazers, shimmering socks and boldly mixed high-top sneakers, there’s a lot here that isn’t indebted to anyone.

None of this is quite ready for Barneys, but we wouldn’t be surprised if there was a Uniqlo collaboration in their future.

See the slideshow»

Opening Ceremony

Uniqlo has a remarkably catalog for a down-market brand, but even more impressive is how many upscale designers they’ve managed to tempt in for collaborations. Alexander Wang, Loden Dager, Tim Hamilton were all on last year’s list, but apparently the ‘qlo has a few more in the works.

Over the next few months, they’re rolling out two new men’s collections from Opening Ceremony and Gilded Age respectively. (Shipley & Halmos, sadly, stuck with womenswear.)

Gilded Age acquits themselves fairly with a set of baggy, nautical gear, but we’re more partial to Opening Ceremony, not least because of their electric blue suit that looks like it could have come right off Pete Campbell’s back.

See the suit, and Gilded Age’s contribution»

Whether it’s punk rock, kanji or toaster ovens, Japan is often better at interpretation than invention. As a result, Tokyo’s status as a style capital is less about their brands than about their collaborations. So while Barbour may not have the international name recognition it deserves, but you can bet it’s on a lot of minds in Tokyo.

And vice versa apparently. This collaboration between Barbour and To Ki To (from Tokyo, naturally) just came down the transom, and it’s pretty close to the heavy raingear collection of our dreams. Without exposing themselves to too much London drizzle, To Ki To managed to nail the rain-soaked British charm, with a few curveballs added in translation.

Kind of like Guitar Wolf…if you’re into that sort of thing.

See a few more of the jackets»

This time of year, it pays to have a pair of snow-ready shoes handy. They probably won’t be the best-looking thing in your closet, but they’ll spare you the trouble of galoshes and get you through the slushy time of year with all your finer footwear intact.

At the capsule show, Gourmet showed us some of the best examples we’ve seen so far, along with a respectable showing of straight sneakers. Their zippered shoes—which we keep wanting to describe as “spaceman shoes”—are definitely a good idea, but the crown jewel is to the right. Look at the matching rubber bottoms and you’ll start to get the idea. This is the first time we’ve seen a shoe that could genuinely call L. L. Bean an influence.

Score another one for Maine.

See more of Gourmet’s shoes»

We were so enamored of Mr. Hart’s vintage Woolrich hunting cap that we almost forgot about the brands more recent exploits. This outfit was pulled from their recent Autumn/Winter 2009 line and it’s as good as anything you’ll run across from their history.

They’ve found their way into Earnest Sewn and Odin in New York and Confederacy and Ron Herman in L.A., so they’re hardly the underdog these days, but it’s nice to know workwear has a few heavy-hitters on its side. They’re even a presence at the Rogues Gallery outlet in Maine…which we guess means they haven’t forgotten their roots.

Our old friends at Norsea Industries have come out with a new Autumn/Winter line, and while most of it is the same North England nautical duds we gushed about before, there’s something new this time around. And it looks an awful lot like jewelry.

Well, maybe jewelry is a bit too strong—let’s stick with “accessories.” The latest goods include scarves, loose bracelets, tie and lapel pins, cufflinks, and even a watch fob or two. It’s a little different from the stripped-down denim they were moving a season ago, but it’s not so far off the mark.

See what we mean»

It’s a little too cold to be thinking about sunglasses at the moment, but maybe we just need to think warm thoughts. And grab a good pair of sunglasses…

These come from an Oliver Peoples offshoot called Mosley Tribes, and they should be hitting stores at about the same time you’re willing to go outside again. Around the time March and April roll around, these summery shades will be finding their way into window displays, and we’ll be among the first in line. We like their gingham model too, but somehow these take the cake.

Besides, the yellow reminds us of summer.

Runway fashion is easy to mock, but it can still knock us off our feet from time to time.

For instance, the Moschino Fall 2009 collection that just took its turn in Milan. There are at least five jaw-dropping outfits, which is a higher average than most lines, but even more impressively, they make the case for the bowler hat far better than we ever could.

Maybe we’ve been a bit too 20th century with our nostalgia.

See the other four looks»

Pajama-inspired lines are just starting to blossom into trendiness, but it’s always nice to see one take things in a different direction.

American Viceroy is a new line with the sleepwear-inspired tagline “Made for Daydreaming.” It’s hard to come up with a better slogan for daytime pajamas, but they’re more interested in Wes Anderson-style youth culture than Schnabel-esque scene-making. The references are all pitch-perfect—J. D. Salinger, Cat Stevens, Pavement—and it doesn’t hurt that they’re drawing on real tailoring prowess for the deceptively simple outfits. One caption proclaims, “we got in fist-fights to make sure that shirttail was right.”

Don’t worry, boys. It shows.

See more of the line»

Raf Simons and Fred Perry are two of the most youth-obsessed names in menswear, so it makes sense that they’d come up with something interesting together. We just didn’t expect it to be so colorful…

This is their second collaboration (for S/S 09) and we have to say, the oranges and blues won us over. It might be the Seu Jorge-ish model, but this line nails the City of God look better than anything we’ve seen. Maybe Brazil is finally making its mark on menswear.

But mind the loose weave if don’t happen to be in a Brazilian climate.

See more of Raf Simons x Fred Perry»

Black and gray get all the cred, and there’s always a new color of the year kicking around, but whites and light khakis can have the same panache if you pull them off right. And white bucks are certainly a step in the right direction.

In this case, your guide is Conference of Birds, the same label that gave us the coats we gushed over this summer. This time around they’re feeling a little more summery, and giving us a quick refresher on the best ways to wear white pants.

Memorial day can’t get here soon enough.

See more of the line»

Our favorite bespoke tie-maker has a new line coming out, and we couldn’t resist taking an early peek.

Vittorio J will still work up a handful of ties to your specs, but you might do just as well sticking with their in-house line. They make the clever move of going narrow without being skinny, but the material might be an even bigger draw. They use English silk and the emphasis everywhere is on intricate patterns and bold colors.

Think of it as a consolation prize now that the upward-slope doesn’t quite cut the mustard.

See the rest of Vittorio’s ties»

Collaborations between classic masters and younger brands are thick on the ground these days—yes, Moscot, we’re looking at you—but there aren’t many as well suited as Duckie Brown and Florsheim.

Duckie Brown has been mining Savile Row-style classicism for a while now, so it’s no surprise they finally brought some real cobblers on board. The real surprise here is the subtle shifts they bring in, like adding blues and greens to the leather-dyeing palate, matching the sole rubber to the color of the shoe, and putting out a whole line of cap-toes fastened with metal studs.

Best of all, they’re pricing the bulk of the line at $295, as a gesture to modern times.

See the shoes up close»

The latest F/W line from Craig Robinson confirms what we’ve long suspected: a good tailor always wins out.

Robinson comes out of the bespoke world, so he’s got an appreciation for clean lines and the occasional pair of suspenders, but it doesn’t stop him from throwing in some intricate paneling when the mood strikes him. Shuffling between through British sophistication and military precision, this line isn’t exactly on-trend, but it’s so well done that it doesn’t matter.

Good design is still good design, and good timing is no substitute.

See the rest of the line»

We’ve been following New York’s Assembly since it opened this past April, and they’ve turned into the city’s best mix of vintage rarities and well-chosen designer gear. But we didn’t expect them to turn into designers.

Greg Armas is the man behind the store, and, more recently, the man behind a small, limited-edition line of car coats, blazers and slacks. The line looks fantastic—exactly what we’d expect from a man with an appreciation for antique corkscrew—but the precedent is even better.

Granted, most boutique owners probably don’t have the knack for design that Armas does…but it would be interesting to see them try. And as long as they keep things limited edition, we doubt there’ll be too much harm done. We might even get a few new labels out of it.

Publishing a set of influences nine months before the line comes out runs the risk of being pretentious—after all, who needs labels showing you three more pictures of Steve McQueen; that’s our job—but done right, it can be genuinely exciting.

For instance, the latest “research pics” from Stansfield. Apparently they’re leaving the hunting look behind in favor of a more nautical vibe—like the jaunty-looking fellow on the left here. While we don’t love the tossed back quasi-lapel, we’re willing to wait and see how it turns out.

Of course, it looks they’ve done a bit of hand-wringing about airing their creative laundry, but we wouldn’t be too worried. If the only secret is that the navy had good taste in fabric, we’d say the secret was already out.

The Spring 09 collection from perennial favorites Band of Outsiders is currently making the rounds (thanks, Kanye), but this time they’re in video form.

Instead of a set of static pictures, we get a series of people fading gently in and out of frame in madras hoodies, tartan shorts and, of course, bow ties. The shoes are mostly Topsider-esque boaters, but there’s nothing here to suggest the BoO folks are slipping. Mostly, we just wish it were warmer.

See the videos in full»

It’s always nice to see an old friend…

Selectism is sharing a peek at Engineered Garments’ new Spring collection, and it’s interesting as always. The workwear pioneers have moved on from the chaplin-esque bagginess of last year’s spring line to a more modern trim, with a new set of ornate fabrics along for the ride—a few which look like they might be more at home on curtain rods.

But don’t worry: they’re still cutting jackets with an eye towards turn-of-the-century steel workers, and they still do it better than anyone else.

See a few pictures of the line»

We mostly know Acne for their raw denim, but apparently they’re a lot more mod than we gave them credit for.

This Spring/Summer 09 collection is a lot more colorful than we expect from them…in addition to containing some of the shortest men’s shorts we’ve ever seen. On the bright side, there are suits with sandals, a brash commitment to sneakers and a general atmosphere of mod-ish insouciance.

Well played, fellows.

See more of the line here»

We focus on big-name designers so much that it’s easy to forget how many different pieces go into making a clothing line. For instance, if you’ve ever bought a shirt from Thom Browne, it actually came from the shirtmakers at Gitman Brothers, an American List-approved firm out of Ashland, P.A..

They’ve gotten where they are through impeccable craftsmanship—extra touches like handmade plackets, tight stitching and hand turned, stitchless pockets—but they haven’t flexed their design muscles more than they needed to…until now.

They recently made a splash reintroducing old fabrics under the name Gitman Original Vintage. We haven’t seen the shirts yet—they’re debuting at the AW09 capsule shows—but judging by their reputation, we’re in for quite a collection.

Our favorite futurist tie-makers are playing it safer than usual with their new fall/winter wool collection.

We love a good three-inch tie, but we’re closer to the end than the beginning on that look, and the Sovereign Beck folks—once the great hope for tie design—aren’t doing much to keep it alive. A plaid tie is still a plaid tie, and the collection isn’t bad at all—in fact, it’s probably the most department-store-ready gear we’ve seen from them—but we had high hopes. Only the blue-green version on the right shows any signs of the Mathematica aesthetic that made their previous collections stand out.

On the bright side, they’re also holding a Holiday sale where you can get some of their vintage work for up to half off the usual price. So maybe we’ll cut them a little slack.

Nautical duds are nothing new, but we’re always glad to see a good idea take root.

In this case, that means Mister Freedom, a Paris-by-way-of-Los-Angeles marque, is releasing a line based on the ten years their mascot spent sailing the Indian Ocean. It’s all fiction, naturally, but they go as far as titling the line “The Last Cruise, the Salty Years,” which certainly rolls off the tongue better than “spring/summer ’09.”

As you might imagine, the clothes are pretty thoroughly broken in, but they’re also impressively well-chosen, ranging from peacoats circa 1910 to replicated U.S. Navy “jungle cloth” that was phased out in 1950. Not bad for archival work, but we still can’t see a deck hat without thinking of Gilligan…

See the line here»

We’ve had our eye on b store ever since this summer’s capsule show (and since we found our favorite trench coat), so we’re happy that their Spring ’09 line is finally captured on film.

Apparently they’re bigger fans of gingham than we thought (although everyone loves a picnic) and their collars are only getting smaller, which should be interesting down the road. Our only complaint here is the gladiator-style footwear featured in all four pictures. It was bad enough when this invaded the women’s runways; surely we can keep it off manlier feet.

See the rest of the line»

Hyden Yoo has been a New York boutique mainstay for some time, but after seeing his Spring/Summer ’09 collection, we’re ready for him to jump into the world of department store pop-ups and fast-fashion collaborations.

Between this angular three-piece and the asymmetrical cardigan after the jump, he’s earned a much higher profile than he has. Our only complaint is the Keffiyeh-esque scarf. It may be time to give that one back to the Palestinians.

See the rest of the line»

Monochromatic lines can be a dicey proposition, but it can give you a chance to stretch your legs a little more with regard to the cut. After all, if you’re going to risk a fencing-style blazer, you probably want to keep it as understated as you can.

This time, the monochromatic duds come from the Korean line Sleep Walker, with a quilted denim poncho thrown in to liven things up. We love white suits as much as the next style blog, but this might be too specialized a look to wear outside of the fashion set. Then again, it probably goes over better in Seoul.

See the rest of the line»

Between Savile-obsessed trads and an older tribe still reliving the British Invasion, it’s easy to forget the younger generation of British designers, even when they’re churning out goods as impressive as anything you’ll find in New York. For example, our old friend Oliver Spencer.

Spencer’s Fall ’08 line has a lot to recommend it, but what caught our eye was the rough fabrics, long pirate-style peacoat, and his clever twists on the cardigan. Add in a little classic tailoring, and we’re pretty much sold. What else would you expect from Keith’s tailor?

See the line in full»

As expected, Japan is already making a play to be the go-to source for Americana. Exhibit A: the latest line from Tokyo-based Hare, which delves into both workwear and the previously unnamed mountainwear, which consists mostly of flannel and nylon vests.

As is becoming the rule with Japanese designs, it’s familiar but stripped down enough to seem a few steps ahead of the stateside curve. There’s a lot of emphasis on scarves and boots, but somebody has to pick up the accessory slack.

More from Hare»

Marketing has become a bit of a dirty word lately, but it has a lot more to do with modern fashion brands than anything that comes out of a factory. After all, where would Tom Ford be without a few well-framed photographs?

With that in mind, Commonwealth Utilities had a good idea. The label is a back-and-forth collaboration between designer Anthony Keegan and marketing guru Richard Christiansen—Anthony provides the clothes while Richard provides the image—and the fact that they go back a decade-plus doesn’t hurt. The advertising end has been impressive so far, with a perfectly designed shirt package and a lookbook shot with a UFC fighter, but naturally, we’re a little more interested in Mr. Keegan’s contribution.

If their Spring line is any indication, we’re about to see a lot more high-buttoned blazers. And we love a well patterned pocket.

See more from Commonwealth Utilities»

Yoko Devereaux has always been more concerned with forward-thinking style than wearability, so there are more than a few items in the latest batch that would look out of place on the sidewalk. But if you’re looking for the sweet spot between futuristic moon suits and the everyday staples, we suggest the gray jacket in the middle, or the high-cut blazer on the right. (We’re seeing a lot more of those lately…)

And we can always use more high-cropped pants.

The mod look has having a slow renaissance for some time now, but so far it’s been confined to suits (thank you, Mr. Smith) and sportswear (thank you, Mr. Perry). Well, it’s finally trickling down.

Ijin Material isn’t particularly upscale, and having a model rock the t-shirt under a bland suit isn’t doing them any favors, but if you were wondering what a mod pair of jeans would look like, search no further.

We’re always looking for someone bucking convention, even if the convention wasn’t so bad. For instance, we love a good pair of Ray-Bans, but there’s always someone out there with a new idea…

In this case, the idea comes from Alexander Hi Tek, a British subject with an uncanny knack for steampunk-inspired frames that you could actually wear on the street.

We knew it was only a matter of time before someone took this mainstream, but it’s not quite there yet. So far, Hi Tek is an eBay-only proposition, but hopefully someone will get this into a store some time soon.

A few more frames»

To cap off our recent Japan fixation, we’re taking a look at Limoland, a Murakami-esque line out of (you guessed it) Tokyo.

The icon this time around is Limo, a wide-mouthed cartoon head adorning various brightly colored goods from totes to parkas to laptop cases. Some of it verges into M.I.A. territory, but we like Limo himself. We’ve seen enough logos that it’s nice to see a genuinely fresh face.

A few more pictures»

It’s getting blustery out there, but there are still lots of options if you don’t want to give in to the synthetic parka just yet.

Fashion Indie just tipped us off to Harmon, a grayscale-prone line that just had the good fortune of landing at Oak, the most-favored boutique for downtown Manhattan fashion-heads. We have to say, it was a good pickup. They might be too forward for non-hipsters, but the duffle coat has been in great need of an update for some time, and these folks seem primed to give it one. Of course, if you’re willing to give the parka another try, we could recommend a place for that too.

See more of Harmon»

FashionIndie turned us on to these pictures from Tokyo line Man of Moods. They alternate between monochromatic winterwear and Brazilian-style color freakouts, but it’s surprising how well they blend the two. It’s not the most wearable stuff we’ve ever seen…but one or two of these items—the button-ups and scarves in particular—could do a lot to brighten up the coming winter.

More pics after the jump»

The jacket on the left may look familiar to Hives fans as the Swedish rockers’ signature Thom Browne-designed outfits, but this is entirely new gear. The label is General Idea, and the look is military, vaguely western, and resolutely contrast-stitched.

Mr. Browne had a good idea dressing the hives in black and white, but he wasn’t adventurous enough to follow up on it, so it’s good to see someone picking up the mantle.

See more of the line here»

Brooks Brothers is as close as the New World has to a tailoring institution, so we’ve been watching Thom Browne’s contribution to the Black Fleece line particularly closely. And thanks to Selectism, we just got a peek at the latest additions to the line.

Naturally, it’s catnip for trads, but Mr. Browne manages to throw in more than just thin lapels, including his treasured formal shorts, argyle socks, and a two-tone sweater that’s not that far from what Paul Smith’s up to these days. (Minus the bird head, naturally.)

Our favorite performance outerwear shop is getting back in business starting tomorrow, just ahead of the rainy season.

We’re talking about Nau, a Portland marque that went briefly out of business this May only to be resuscitated by the like-minded Horny Toad. Their new gear isn’t that much of a break from the old, but you’ll have to get it online instead of in brick-and-mortar outposts, and it’s still the best rain protection we’ve come across.

We don’t expect it to make much of a crossover to the boutique scene, but it’s definitely worth a click or two.

As you might know, we’re very impressed by cobblers, especially cobblers of the semi-ancient continental variety.

Edward Green has been plying their wares out of a Northampton shop for upwards of a century now, which is enough to impress us. They also work on an admirably small scale, churning out around 65 pairs of shoes a month.

And if you happen to be in the Northeast tomorrow or a few weeks from now, you can catch a trunk show, see the samples up close, and get a few pairs made-to-order.

Details after the jump»

Quiksilver isn’t a brand that’s on a lot of people’s minds these days now that the surfer and skater crazes have gently passed us by, but they’re still up to some interesting things.

The Limited Collection—shorthand for the more experimental wing of the brand—just put out their Spring ’09 line, and there are more than a few pieces worth checking out. Most of it stays firmly in Spicoli territory, but that’s not such a bad thing these days, especially with winter beach season rolling around. On the creative front, they’ve got hoodie oxfords, cardigan shirts (which they endearingly refer to as “shirtigans”), and this electric blue number, which may be the most unapologetically sunny piece we’ve seen in showrooms in quite some time.

See more pics here»

Idol Radec has been kicking around the Los Angeles scene for a few seasons now, but thanks to their casual approach to web design, we’ve had trouble getting a close look at their goods. Luckily, Fashionisto got their hands on the spring collection so we could see for ourselves.

It’s nothing mind-blowing—in fact, didn’t we see that tie in the window at Banana Republic?—but there’s nothing wrong with playing it safe. We’re always glad to see a contrast shawl collar and pair of Newport Reds…even if we already know where to get them.

We spotted Clae at the capsule show in July, but we thought we’d take a moment to examine the full set. The looks range from low-key loafers to Thriller-esque hightops, but the middle ground is where the real action is.

After the jump, see our pick of the litter»

One of our favorites from this summer’s capsule show has popped back onto our radar. Mjolk just gave us a peek at their Autumn/Winter line and, just like at the capsule show, we like what we see. The Sherlock-Holmesy overcoat in the middle has a nice, shoulder-heavy silhouette and we can never see enough flannel. Pay particular attention to the small-collared, high-waisted fellow on the right. It’s a look you’ll likely be seeing more and more of.

We finally got pictures of the Acne and Lanvin collaboration—inexplicably titled “Love”—and so far we’re pretty impressed. Granted, these are the only three men’s looks they saw fit to bless us with, but it’s still got us excited to wear dark blue again.

Also, straw hats may be poised for a comeback.

We finally got down to Barneys to take a peek at the Benjamin Bixby line from Andre 3000 (née Benjamin), and it’s quite a display. The line doesn’t stray too far from the Lauren party line, but the moves it does make—like the Lindbergh-esque bomber jacket and scarf—suggest a few places Bixby could go once it gets its sea legs. It’s broader and a lot more earnest than the typical preppy fare…which we should have expected, given Benjamin’s wide-eyed enthusiasm.

More importantly, the folks on the floor informed us they’re already restocking. Apparently we aren’t the only ones who are impressed.

We’re always impressed by a British import—something about the slim, boxy cut—so we were especially pleased to see Bamford & Sons landing in Barneys New York’s flagship Madison Avenue store this week. They’ve taken over a patch on the ground floor with fall offerings, most notably the iconic Trapper and Trackside jackets, but what caught our eye was this double-breasted overcoat.

It’s a hard garment to pull off without squashing your suit or swallowing up your shoulders. This one balances the two as only a Brit could.

We’re past Labor Day, which means the fall collections are finally trickling into stores. Our favorite so far came to us by way of UrbanDaddy: the first men’s line from Richard Chai. Richard’s brother Eddy has been ruling lower Manhattan with an iron fist for the last few years as co-owner of Odin, but it’s safe to say Richard has more than nepotism on his side.

His new line looks like J. Crew circa 2020, with low-slung cardigans and multi-layered pea coats giving a surprising twist on one of our favorite looks. And we never say no to a v-neck, even if we don’t advise the all-oatmeal approach taken by the gentleman in the middle.

It’s shaping up to be an interesting autumn.

With Labor Day weekend on the horizon, it’s almost time to trade those madras shorts for sweaters, toggle coats and the infamous flannel. You’ve still got a week to bare your calves, but a little preemptive shopping never hurt anyone.

Landing this week at East Village mainstay DEN, Engineered Garments is a throwback to early 20th Century workwear of the type you may be used to seeing elsewhere. Think coalminers and railroad workers…but well-dressed ones, wearing selvage denim, collarless oxford shirts and thermal-lined hoodies. (A little anachronism never hurt anyone either.)

And, if you’re the patient type, you can catch their capsule collection with Levi’s, the result of their GQ / CFDA award earlier this year. Highlights include 501s circa 1947 and a historically authentic army shirt of the type worn by prisoners in Alcatraz at the turn of the century.

Which should be enough to keep you warm when you’re swimming for freedom.

For all the bespokery surrounding shoes and suits, there’s remarkably few limited edition operations on the tie front…which is why we’re so happy we’ve actually found one.

The tie-maker’s name is Vittorio J, and it turns out we’ve been admiring his work for much longer than we’ve known his name. He’s a staple of the shirt-and-tie boutique 20 Peacocks and takes appointments for bespoke tie service at Michael Andrews Bespoke, two of our favorite Manhattan outposts that just happen to be neighbors.

As you might guess from the name, Vittorio favors Italian styling over the British flair that’s currently popular, but most of their stock won’t look too familiar anyway. They specialize in exclusive designs and very small runs, sometimes making as few as two ties.

In other words, you can be sure they haven’t seen it before.

We’ve been impressed by Gilded Age before, but this is the first time they’ve pushed themselves historically. Their usual beat is 19th Century New England workwear, but their latest collection sees them swerving in a Hopper-esque direction. Instead of anachronistic rural digs, they’ve moved to anachronistic urban gear, meaning two-colored cardigans, trench coats and denim blazers, among others. There are enough people chasing the Mad Men look already, but Gilded Age is bringing something entirely their own to the look.

And, of course, they still churn out weathered jeans and flannel as well as anyone.

Click for another look at the clothes»

One of the highlights of the capsule show was a British marque called “b”. (The store is b Store, the in-house line is b Clothing, shoes are b Footwear, and so on.) They’ve been one of the highlights of the London scene since they opened in 2000, but they’re only building up a stateside presence now. Their website has a few highlights—including a few bathrobe-esque takes on the waistcoat—but their merch at capsule was a cut above.

More on the wares of b Store»

A.P.C. has let loose their fall and winter ’08 lineup, and we’re suitably impressed. Choosing a ginger model is a particularly seasonal touch, but the lineup of tweed, denim and generally tough fabrics is the real draw. They’ve been having a pretty good year—they rolled out a new denim style in April—and a recent Japanese expansion seems to have tempered their usual minimalism.

Naturally, the pants remain slim and the jackets keep their epaulettes.

Another set of pics after the jump»

The death of the tie may be a little exaggerated, but stylistically, neckwear is definitely in a rut. Outside of the skinny/wide dichotomy and the increasing influence of the Britons, there isn’t a lot of new stuff happening. If the tie aisle is ever going to show us something we can’t find in a vintage store, someone is going to have to step up.

And we’ve got a few ideas about who.

For instance, Sovereign Beck»

Now that Nau has been shuttered and unshuttered, it looks like the streets of Portland are once again safe for eco-friendly startups.

END seems to think so at least. The newly minted footwear company has been attracting all sorts of press with its green approach to the sneaker business. Most notably, the company is helmed by a former Nike exec, who may have felt inclined to atone for his employers’ less than savory labor practices. The shoes themselves are mostly earth-toned versions of what you can already find at Foot Locker, but the raw materials are decidedly different, based in recycled rubber and laces made from recycled milk jugs.

The shoes are slated to go on sale August 1 at REI stores, so we’ll have to wait ‘til then to see how they turn out.

It’s not exactly trench coat weather, but it pays to keep an eye on the future.

In that vein, we thought we’d mention Conference of Birds, an up and coming British marque from Andrew Holden. The trenches caught our eye, but they’ve also got a full line of the suits, denim and overcoats waiting in the wings (so to speak). So far the only store is the Billyburg salon Woodley & Bunny, but we wouldn’t be surprised if it popped up on the other coast pretty soon.

More pics after the jump»

It’s official: Kempt favorites Shipley & Halmos have just moved out of the “young upstart” phase, and into the “industry darling” phase.

On May 20th, the ex-Trovata duo will bring home the National Arts Club’s Young Designer Award, the label’s first award since launching in January. The label specializes in trim-fitting suits and summery shorts—just now coming into season—but extra touches like Oxford-cloth boxers give the line a playful edge. More recent obsessions have included black gingham and bowties.

A few of our favorite pics from the S&H kids»

A lot of good stuff has come out of Japan recently, but they haven’t had much in the way of suits. Until now, anyway.

Our friends at A Continuous Lean tipped us off to the Japanese brand Whereabouts, currently on shelves at L.A.’s H. Men.

Free of the pop-art touches we’ve come to expect from the land of Mario, Whereabouts seems content with thin lapels, tasteful tailoring and impeccable fabrics. The look has served them well in Asia: they’re stocked in more than 20 boutiques and department stores in Japan, with four more locations in China and Korea. In the States, however, the label’s still under the radar.

More on Whereabouts»

A lot of designers have been inspired by early 60s chic, but it’s rare to see one merge nostalgia with a fresh take on menswear staples.

We recently took a look at the Fall ’08 line from recent Bloomingdale’s recruit Bureau, and it’s more forward-looking than you’d think at first glance. This isn’t the 1962 of Thom Browne, it’s more like 1962 of Wong Kar Wai, with one-button suits meshing with bizarre sweater piping for an otherworldly feel. The suits are appropriately slim, but distinctive touches like the high peak lapels keep it from getting lost in the crowd.

The fall designs will hit stores in August.

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