It’s always nice to see an old friend…

Selectism is sharing a peek at Engineered Garments’ new Spring collection, and it’s interesting as always. The workwear pioneers have moved on from the chaplin-esque bagginess of last year’s spring line to a more modern trim, with a new set of ornate fabrics along for the ride—a few which look like they might be more at home on curtain rods.

But don’t worry: they’re still cutting jackets with an eye towards turn-of-the-century steel workers, and they still do it better than anyone else.

See a few pictures of the line»

We mostly know Acne for their raw denim, but apparently they’re a lot more mod than we gave them credit for.

This Spring/Summer 09 collection is a lot more colorful than we expect from them…in addition to containing some of the shortest men’s shorts we’ve ever seen. On the bright side, there are suits with sandals, a brash commitment to sneakers and a general atmosphere of mod-ish insouciance.

Well played, fellows.

See more of the line here»

We focus on big-name designers so much that it’s easy to forget how many different pieces go into making a clothing line. For instance, if you’ve ever bought a shirt from Thom Browne, it actually came from the shirtmakers at Gitman Brothers, an American List-approved firm out of Ashland, P.A..

They’ve gotten where they are through impeccable craftsmanship—extra touches like handmade plackets, tight stitching and hand turned, stitchless pockets—but they haven’t flexed their design muscles more than they needed to…until now.

They recently made a splash reintroducing old fabrics under the name Gitman Original Vintage. We haven’t seen the shirts yet—they’re debuting at the AW09 capsule shows—but judging by their reputation, we’re in for quite a collection.

Our favorite futurist tie-makers are playing it safer than usual with their new fall/winter wool collection.

We love a good three-inch tie, but we’re closer to the end than the beginning on that look, and the Sovereign Beck folks—once the great hope for tie design—aren’t doing much to keep it alive. A plaid tie is still a plaid tie, and the collection isn’t bad at all—in fact, it’s probably the most department-store-ready gear we’ve seen from them—but we had high hopes. Only the blue-green version on the right shows any signs of the Mathematica aesthetic that made their previous collections stand out.

On the bright side, they’re also holding a Holiday sale where you can get some of their vintage work for up to half off the usual price. So maybe we’ll cut them a little slack.

Nautical duds are nothing new, but we’re always glad to see a good idea take root.

In this case, that means Mister Freedom, a Paris-by-way-of-Los-Angeles marque, is releasing a line based on the ten years their mascot spent sailing the Indian Ocean. It’s all fiction, naturally, but they go as far as titling the line “The Last Cruise, the Salty Years,” which certainly rolls off the tongue better than “spring/summer ’09.”

As you might imagine, the clothes are pretty thoroughly broken in, but they’re also impressively well-chosen, ranging from peacoats circa 1910 to replicated U.S. Navy “jungle cloth” that was phased out in 1950. Not bad for archival work, but we still can’t see a deck hat without thinking of Gilligan…

See the line here»

We’ve had our eye on b store ever since this summer’s capsule show (and since we found our favorite trench coat), so we’re happy that their Spring ’09 line is finally captured on film.

Apparently they’re bigger fans of gingham than we thought (although everyone loves a picnic) and their collars are only getting smaller, which should be interesting down the road. Our only complaint here is the gladiator-style footwear featured in all four pictures. It was bad enough when this invaded the women’s runways; surely we can keep it off manlier feet.

See the rest of the line»

Hyden Yoo has been a New York boutique mainstay for some time, but after seeing his Spring/Summer ’09 collection, we’re ready for him to jump into the world of department store pop-ups and fast-fashion collaborations.

Between this angular three-piece and the asymmetrical cardigan after the jump, he’s earned a much higher profile than he has. Our only complaint is the Keffiyeh-esque scarf. It may be time to give that one back to the Palestinians.

See the rest of the line»

Monochromatic lines can be a dicey proposition, but it can give you a chance to stretch your legs a little more with regard to the cut. After all, if you’re going to risk a fencing-style blazer, you probably want to keep it as understated as you can.

This time, the monochromatic duds come from the Korean line Sleep Walker, with a quilted denim poncho thrown in to liven things up. We love white suits as much as the next style blog, but this might be too specialized a look to wear outside of the fashion set. Then again, it probably goes over better in Seoul.

See the rest of the line»

Between Savile-obsessed trads and an older tribe still reliving the British Invasion, it’s easy to forget the younger generation of British designers, even when they’re churning out goods as impressive as anything you’ll find in New York. For example, our old friend Oliver Spencer.

Spencer’s Fall ’08 line has a lot to recommend it, but what caught our eye was the rough fabrics, long pirate-style peacoat, and his clever twists on the cardigan. Add in a little classic tailoring, and we’re pretty much sold. What else would you expect from Keith’s tailor?

See the line in full»

As expected, Japan is already making a play to be the go-to source for Americana. Exhibit A: the latest line from Tokyo-based Hare, which delves into both workwear and the previously unnamed mountainwear, which consists mostly of flannel and nylon vests.

As is becoming the rule with Japanese designs, it’s familiar but stripped down enough to seem a few steps ahead of the stateside curve. There’s a lot of emphasis on scarves and boots, but somebody has to pick up the accessory slack.

More from Hare»

Marketing has become a bit of a dirty word lately, but it has a lot more to do with modern fashion brands than anything that comes out of a factory. After all, where would Tom Ford be without a few well-framed photographs?

With that in mind, Commonwealth Utilities had a good idea. The label is a back-and-forth collaboration between designer Anthony Keegan and marketing guru Richard Christiansen—Anthony provides the clothes while Richard provides the image—and the fact that they go back a decade-plus doesn’t hurt. The advertising end has been impressive so far, with a perfectly designed shirt package and a lookbook shot with a UFC fighter, but naturally, we’re a little more interested in Mr. Keegan’s contribution.

If their Spring line is any indication, we’re about to see a lot more high-buttoned blazers. And we love a well patterned pocket.

See more from Commonwealth Utilities»

Yoko Devereaux has always been more concerned with forward-thinking style than wearability, so there are more than a few items in the latest batch that would look out of place on the sidewalk. But if you’re looking for the sweet spot between futuristic moon suits and the everyday staples, we suggest the gray jacket in the middle, or the high-cut blazer on the right. (We’re seeing a lot more of those lately…)

And we can always use more high-cropped pants.

The mod look has having a slow renaissance for some time now, but so far it’s been confined to suits (thank you, Mr. Smith) and sportswear (thank you, Mr. Perry). Well, it’s finally trickling down.

Ijin Material isn’t particularly upscale, and having a model rock the t-shirt under a bland suit isn’t doing them any favors, but if you were wondering what a mod pair of jeans would look like, search no further.

We’re always looking for someone bucking convention, even if the convention wasn’t so bad. For instance, we love a good pair of Ray-Bans, but there’s always someone out there with a new idea…

In this case, the idea comes from Alexander Hi Tek, a British subject with an uncanny knack for steampunk-inspired frames that you could actually wear on the street.

We knew it was only a matter of time before someone took this mainstream, but it’s not quite there yet. So far, Hi Tek is an eBay-only proposition, but hopefully someone will get this into a store some time soon.

A few more frames»

To cap off our recent Japan fixation, we’re taking a look at Limoland, a Murakami-esque line out of (you guessed it) Tokyo.

The icon this time around is Limo, a wide-mouthed cartoon head adorning various brightly colored goods from totes to parkas to laptop cases. Some of it verges into M.I.A. territory, but we like Limo himself. We’ve seen enough logos that it’s nice to see a genuinely fresh face.

A few more pictures»

It’s getting blustery out there, but there are still lots of options if you don’t want to give in to the synthetic parka just yet.

Fashion Indie just tipped us off to Harmon, a grayscale-prone line that just had the good fortune of landing at Oak, the most-favored boutique for downtown Manhattan fashion-heads. We have to say, it was a good pickup. They might be too forward for non-hipsters, but the duffle coat has been in great need of an update for some time, and these folks seem primed to give it one. Of course, if you’re willing to give the parka another try, we could recommend a place for that too.

See more of Harmon»

FashionIndie turned us on to these pictures from Tokyo line Man of Moods. They alternate between monochromatic winterwear and Brazilian-style color freakouts, but it’s surprising how well they blend the two. It’s not the most wearable stuff we’ve ever seen…but one or two of these items—the button-ups and scarves in particular—could do a lot to brighten up the coming winter.

More pics after the jump»

The jacket on the left may look familiar to Hives fans as the Swedish rockers’ signature Thom Browne-designed outfits, but this is entirely new gear. The label is General Idea, and the look is military, vaguely western, and resolutely contrast-stitched.

Mr. Browne had a good idea dressing the hives in black and white, but he wasn’t adventurous enough to follow up on it, so it’s good to see someone picking up the mantle.

See more of the line here»

Brooks Brothers is as close as the New World has to a tailoring institution, so we’ve been watching Thom Browne’s contribution to the Black Fleece line particularly closely. And thanks to Selectism, we just got a peek at the latest additions to the line.

Naturally, it’s catnip for trads, but Mr. Browne manages to throw in more than just thin lapels, including his treasured formal shorts, argyle socks, and a two-tone sweater that’s not that far from what Paul Smith’s up to these days. (Minus the bird head, naturally.)

Our favorite performance outerwear shop is getting back in business starting tomorrow, just ahead of the rainy season.

We’re talking about Nau, a Portland marque that went briefly out of business this May only to be resuscitated by the like-minded Horny Toad. Their new gear isn’t that much of a break from the old, but you’ll have to get it online instead of in brick-and-mortar outposts, and it’s still the best rain protection we’ve come across.

We don’t expect it to make much of a crossover to the boutique scene, but it’s definitely worth a click or two.

As you might know, we’re very impressed by cobblers, especially cobblers of the semi-ancient continental variety.

Edward Green has been plying their wares out of a Northampton shop for upwards of a century now, which is enough to impress us. They also work on an admirably small scale, churning out around 65 pairs of shoes a month.

And if you happen to be in the Northeast tomorrow or a few weeks from now, you can catch a trunk show, see the samples up close, and get a few pairs made-to-order.

Details after the jump»

Quiksilver isn’t a brand that’s on a lot of people’s minds these days now that the surfer and skater crazes have gently passed us by, but they’re still up to some interesting things.

The Limited Collection—shorthand for the more experimental wing of the brand—just put out their Spring ’09 line, and there are more than a few pieces worth checking out. Most of it stays firmly in Spicoli territory, but that’s not such a bad thing these days, especially with winter beach season rolling around. On the creative front, they’ve got hoodie oxfords, cardigan shirts (which they endearingly refer to as “shirtigans”), and this electric blue number, which may be the most unapologetically sunny piece we’ve seen in showrooms in quite some time.

See more pics here»

Idol Radec has been kicking around the Los Angeles scene for a few seasons now, but thanks to their casual approach to web design, we’ve had trouble getting a close look at their goods. Luckily, Fashionisto got their hands on the spring collection so we could see for ourselves.

It’s nothing mind-blowing—in fact, didn’t we see that tie in the window at Banana Republic?—but there’s nothing wrong with playing it safe. We’re always glad to see a contrast shawl collar and pair of Newport Reds…even if we already know where to get them.

We spotted Clae at the capsule show in July, but we thought we’d take a moment to examine the full set. The looks range from low-key loafers to Thriller-esque hightops, but the middle ground is where the real action is.

After the jump, see our pick of the litter»

One of our favorites from this summer’s capsule show has popped back onto our radar. Mjolk just gave us a peek at their Autumn/Winter line and, just like at the capsule show, we like what we see. The Sherlock-Holmesy overcoat in the middle has a nice, shoulder-heavy silhouette and we can never see enough flannel. Pay particular attention to the small-collared, high-waisted fellow on the right. It’s a look you’ll likely be seeing more and more of.

We finally got pictures of the Acne and Lanvin collaboration—inexplicably titled “Love”—and so far we’re pretty impressed. Granted, these are the only three men’s looks they saw fit to bless us with, but it’s still got us excited to wear dark blue again.

Also, straw hats may be poised for a comeback.

We finally got down to Barneys to take a peek at the Benjamin Bixby line from Andre 3000 (née Benjamin), and it’s quite a display. The line doesn’t stray too far from the Lauren party line, but the moves it does make—like the Lindbergh-esque bomber jacket and scarf—suggest a few places Bixby could go once it gets its sea legs. It’s broader and a lot more earnest than the typical preppy fare…which we should have expected, given Benjamin’s wide-eyed enthusiasm.

More importantly, the folks on the floor informed us they’re already restocking. Apparently we aren’t the only ones who are impressed.

We’re always impressed by a British import—something about the slim, boxy cut—so we were especially pleased to see Bamford & Sons landing in Barneys New York’s flagship Madison Avenue store this week. They’ve taken over a patch on the ground floor with fall offerings, most notably the iconic Trapper and Trackside jackets, but what caught our eye was this double-breasted overcoat.

It’s a hard garment to pull off without squashing your suit or swallowing up your shoulders. This one balances the two as only a Brit could.

We’re past Labor Day, which means the fall collections are finally trickling into stores. Our favorite so far came to us by way of UrbanDaddy: the first men’s line from Richard Chai. Richard’s brother Eddy has been ruling lower Manhattan with an iron fist for the last few years as co-owner of Odin, but it’s safe to say Richard has more than nepotism on his side.

His new line looks like J. Crew circa 2020, with low-slung cardigans and multi-layered pea coats giving a surprising twist on one of our favorite looks. And we never say no to a v-neck, even if we don’t advise the all-oatmeal approach taken by the gentleman in the middle.

It’s shaping up to be an interesting autumn.

With Labor Day weekend on the horizon, it’s almost time to trade those madras shorts for sweaters, toggle coats and the infamous flannel. You’ve still got a week to bare your calves, but a little preemptive shopping never hurt anyone.

Landing this week at East Village mainstay DEN, Engineered Garments is a throwback to early 20th Century workwear of the type you may be used to seeing elsewhere. Think coalminers and railroad workers…but well-dressed ones, wearing selvage denim, collarless oxford shirts and thermal-lined hoodies. (A little anachronism never hurt anyone either.)

And, if you’re the patient type, you can catch their capsule collection with Levi’s, the result of their GQ / CFDA award earlier this year. Highlights include 501s circa 1947 and a historically authentic army shirt of the type worn by prisoners in Alcatraz at the turn of the century.

Which should be enough to keep you warm when you’re swimming for freedom.

For all the bespokery surrounding shoes and suits, there’s remarkably few limited edition operations on the tie front…which is why we’re so happy we’ve actually found one.

The tie-maker’s name is Vittorio J, and it turns out we’ve been admiring his work for much longer than we’ve known his name. He’s a staple of the shirt-and-tie boutique 20 Peacocks and takes appointments for bespoke tie service at Michael Andrews Bespoke, two of our favorite Manhattan outposts that just happen to be neighbors.

As you might guess from the name, Vittorio favors Italian styling over the British flair that’s currently popular, but most of their stock won’t look too familiar anyway. They specialize in exclusive designs and very small runs, sometimes making as few as two ties.

In other words, you can be sure they haven’t seen it before.

We’ve been impressed by Gilded Age before, but this is the first time they’ve pushed themselves historically. Their usual beat is 19th Century New England workwear, but their latest collection sees them swerving in a Hopper-esque direction. Instead of anachronistic rural digs, they’ve moved to anachronistic urban gear, meaning two-colored cardigans, trench coats and denim blazers, among others. There are enough people chasing the Mad Men look already, but Gilded Age is bringing something entirely their own to the look.

And, of course, they still churn out weathered jeans and flannel as well as anyone.

Click for another look at the clothes»

One of the highlights of the capsule show was a British marque called “b”. (The store is b Store, the in-house line is b Clothing, shoes are b Footwear, and so on.) They’ve been one of the highlights of the London scene since they opened in 2000, but they’re only building up a stateside presence now. Their website has a few highlights—including a few bathrobe-esque takes on the waistcoat—but their merch at capsule was a cut above.

More on the wares of b Store»

A.P.C. has let loose their fall and winter ’08 lineup, and we’re suitably impressed. Choosing a ginger model is a particularly seasonal touch, but the lineup of tweed, denim and generally tough fabrics is the real draw. They’ve been having a pretty good year—they rolled out a new denim style in April—and a recent Japanese expansion seems to have tempered their usual minimalism.

Naturally, the pants remain slim and the jackets keep their epaulettes.

Another set of pics after the jump»

The death of the tie may be a little exaggerated, but stylistically, neckwear is definitely in a rut. Outside of the skinny/wide dichotomy and the increasing influence of the Britons, there isn’t a lot of new stuff happening. If the tie aisle is ever going to show us something we can’t find in a vintage store, someone is going to have to step up.

And we’ve got a few ideas about who.

For instance, Sovereign Beck»

Now that Nau has been shuttered and unshuttered, it looks like the streets of Portland are once again safe for eco-friendly startups.

END seems to think so at least. The newly minted footwear company has been attracting all sorts of press with its green approach to the sneaker business. Most notably, the company is helmed by a former Nike exec, who may have felt inclined to atone for his employers’ less than savory labor practices. The shoes themselves are mostly earth-toned versions of what you can already find at Foot Locker, but the raw materials are decidedly different, based in recycled rubber and laces made from recycled milk jugs.

The shoes are slated to go on sale August 1 at REI stores, so we’ll have to wait ‘til then to see how they turn out.

It’s not exactly trench coat weather, but it pays to keep an eye on the future.

In that vein, we thought we’d mention Conference of Birds, an up and coming British marque from Andrew Holden. The trenches caught our eye, but they’ve also got a full line of the suits, denim and overcoats waiting in the wings (so to speak). So far the only store is the Billyburg salon Woodley & Bunny, but we wouldn’t be surprised if it popped up on the other coast pretty soon.

More pics after the jump»

It’s official: Kempt favorites Shipley & Halmos have just moved out of the “young upstart” phase, and into the “industry darling” phase.

On May 20th, the ex-Trovata duo will bring home the National Arts Club’s Young Designer Award, the label’s first award since launching in January. The label specializes in trim-fitting suits and summery shorts—just now coming into season—but extra touches like Oxford-cloth boxers give the line a playful edge. More recent obsessions have included black gingham and bowties.

A few of our favorite pics from the S&H kids»

A lot of good stuff has come out of Japan recently, but they haven’t had much in the way of suits. Until now, anyway.

Our friends at A Continuous Lean tipped us off to the Japanese brand Whereabouts, currently on shelves at L.A.’s H. Men.

Free of the pop-art touches we’ve come to expect from the land of Mario, Whereabouts seems content with thin lapels, tasteful tailoring and impeccable fabrics. The look has served them well in Asia: they’re stocked in more than 20 boutiques and department stores in Japan, with four more locations in China and Korea. In the States, however, the label’s still under the radar.

More on Whereabouts»

A lot of designers have been inspired by early 60s chic, but it’s rare to see one merge nostalgia with a fresh take on menswear staples.

We recently took a look at the Fall ’08 line from recent Bloomingdale’s recruit Bureau, and it’s more forward-looking than you’d think at first glance. This isn’t the 1962 of Thom Browne, it’s more like 1962 of Wong Kar Wai, with one-button suits meshing with bizarre sweater piping for an otherworldly feel. The suits are appropriately slim, but distinctive touches like the high peak lapels keep it from getting lost in the crowd.

The fall designs will hit stores in August.

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