In Vogue: The lovely Ms. Mendes in Italian Vogue. We’re sorry we said you weren’t the farming kind. [FashionIndie]
History Written in Sharpee: A Live Journal gives sharpee illustrations of the facebook status of all 44 presidents. We’re pretty sure this is how the Iliad was written. [Maria Sputnik]
Head Games: Whether you’re in America, India, or the rugged lands of Shaolin, you best protect your neck. [Jezebel]
Biters: Bastion of Blogosphere integrity Kanye West faces accusations of plagiarism. Say it ain’t so, ‘Ye. [Vulture]
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The world of product placement is not all good ideas. In fact, for every Heineken contract you see on Mad Men, there’s some NASCAR racer with an Whole Foods logo on his hood or a pair of sunglasses with the GE logo pasted over the nose.
Or this.
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Luckily, the reach of an auction house goes a little farther than a trunk show.
Swann Galleries is having a photo auction with some of the best photos of the past two centuries. Big names include Horst P. Horst (pictured), Henri Cartier-Bresson, Diane Arbus, Robert Mapplethorpe and Alfred Stieglitz, with over 400 photos on the block in sum.
Needless to say, it’s an embarrassment of riches, and auction technology has come a long way since the days of wooden paddles and fast talking Brits. You can peruse the selections online or place a bid here, even if you’re a few time zones away.
And of course, just looking is free.
See a few of our favorites here»
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As you might know, we’re very impressed by cobblers, especially cobblers of the semi-ancient continental variety.
Edward Green has been plying their wares out of a Northampton shop for upwards of a century now, which is enough to impress us. They also work on an admirably small scale, churning out around 65 pairs of shoes a month.
And if you happen to be in the Northeast tomorrow or a few weeks from now, you can catch a trunk show, see the samples up close, and get a few pairs made-to-order.
Details after the jump»
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There’s been a lot of presidential merchandise, but beverages are only just starting to weigh in. This isn’t exactly Billy Beer, but we suppose times have changed to favor tea drinkers
Pearl Fine Teas has launched dueling McCain and Obama teas, respectively a conservative black tea and a worldly African Red Bush Rooibos tea.
Remember friends, you only have a few weeks left to make McCain Cola a reality.
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Unlike a lot of modern gadgets, radio isn’t such a complicated technology. Not that long ago, people were building them in their attics for fun. But it probably never occurred to them to turn to carpentry.
This refreshingly crafty version comes from an Indonesian designer, who harnesses local materials and labor to make a two-tone radio that runs on AAs. It may look like a cutting board, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing.
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It seems there was a bit of a delay in getting the latest tribute to the King of Cool off to the printers; a certain Mr. Pitt who had signed up to write a foreword about his idol never managed to come up with anything except “Angelina ate my homework.”
Well, the book—Unforgettable Steve McQueen is finally here, and it was well worth the wait. In place of Brad’s encomiums it has the best collection of McQueen pix we’ve seen yet —and that’s saying something. If you only buy one McQueen book for your Ultimate Gentleman’s Library, this should be it.
Also worth noting: the book is actually French (subtitle, Inoubliable Steve McQueen); seems celebrating our style icons is yet another place where the Frogs have us beat.
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Quiksilver isn’t the only line with a forward-thinking label coming along for the ride. Adidas has managed to pull the same move without going to the bother of actually producing any shoes, or even designing shoes could possibly be produced. After all, why go to the trouble of putting together samples when all you really need are a few shiny pictures to send around the blogosphere?
Vagant let us know about this promotion, which comes courtesy of German sneakerhead Fritz Träumer. There’s the ultra-green sneaker, the Kraftwerk-inspired sneaker, and a few more, but we couldn’t help wondering
weren’t you supposed to put these on your feet at some point?
See the rest of the sneakers»
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The Talented Ms. Grey: Vice Magazine favorite Sasha Grey is making the leap up to legitimate film with a movie about a call girl. Apparently going from real porn star to fictional prostitute is a big step up. [Variety]
A Touch of Orange: A master class in restrained use of color. The gist is, never underestimate the pocket square. [A Suitable Wardrobe]
Cinema du Karl: Everyone’s favorite teddy bear Karl Lagerfeld is getting into the movie business with a silent film. We hear those are all the rage these days. [WWD]
The Hunt is On: Moose-hunting with Wasilla’s finest. [Josh Spear]
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Quiksilver isn’t a brand that’s on a lot of people’s minds these days now that the surfer and skater crazes have gently passed us by, but they’re still up to some interesting things.
The Limited Collection—shorthand for the more experimental wing of the brand—just put out their Spring ’09 line, and there are more than a few pieces worth checking out. Most of it stays firmly in Spicoli territory, but that’s not such a bad thing these days, especially with winter beach season rolling around. On the creative front, they’ve got hoodie oxfords, cardigan shirts (which they endearingly refer to as “shirtigans”), and this electric blue number, which may be the most unapologetically sunny piece we’ve seen in showrooms in quite some time.
See more pics here»
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Even though we’re generally suspicious of band-aids as fashion statements, we have to admit this is a good idea. If you’re a manly guy who carries around a hammer, you can’t be messing with those wussy-looking pink things. You need to keep your skin together the same way you keep drywall together.
And for that, you need good old fashioned duct tape.
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For all the thought we give to our clothes, it’s worth thinking a little bit about where to put them. A closet’s fine enough, but it boils down to just a hole in the wall. We recommend something a little more monolithic.
This tiger maple armoire should be suitably impressive. Coming from the Brooklyn artisans at City Joinery, it’s what any good wardrobe should be: beautiful, austere, and very very large.
After all, you’re going to want some room.
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Although it may be outclassed by its French counterpart, the American Playboy is still good for something: science.
A pair of econometricians have pored through the Playboy archives with an eye to economic trends and confirmed a preexisting theory that in times of economic crisis—like now, for instance—men like their women a little taller, a little older, and a little more muscular. In short, we want farmer women to help us till the soil after the revolution comes.
We debate the merits of the farmer woman»
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Flame-haired Brit model Lily Cole is the latest testament to the indisputable superiority of French Playboy over the frommage-filled American original. Her Lolita-like cover pose - and the 14-pg. spread inside - is inspired by style icon Serge Gainsbourg’s 1971 concept album Histoire de Melody Nelson. In a nutshell, the plotline involves Gainsbourg plowing his vintage Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost into a teenage nymphet’s bicycle as a prelude to seduction.
More on the lovers of Ms. Cole»
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Emmanuel Dunand/AFP/Getty
There are a lot of rules for gentlemanly behavior. Some are made to be broken; others are not. One often-overlooked rule that falls into the latter category is this: A gentleman should never gesture with his tongue.
Based on the above, it should be obvious why.
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Like its cousin the workshirt, the smock doesn’t get the respect it deserves.
This one comes from the folks at Norsea, and between the well-seasoned fabric and the diagonal-striped panel in front, we’re ready to call it one of the best showroom pieces we’ve seen all year. Put this under a roughly worn suit, or maybe even a three-piece, and you will have pulled off the formal workwear look to perfection.
Naturally, there’s no collar required.
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The Camera Man: A web-based photo retrospective of Marc Jacob’s favorite photographer. [FashionIndie]
Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad Men: Apparently casual misogyny and the occasional angry crotch grab go over pretty well with the Park Slope housewife set. [New York Observer]
A Gaping Void: Documentary proof that Europeans love the Gap. When we said continental flair, this isn’t what we had in mind.
[IHT]
The White Anglo-Saxon Protestant Whale: Ladies and Gentlemen, the preppiest movie of all time. [A Continuous Lean]
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There’s nothing like a splash of asymmetry to liven up a shoe. For instance
This washed-suede monk shoe comes from a N.D.C., a Belgian duo specializing in pre-treated brogues. We like the material well enough, but the asymmetrical buckle is what pushes this one over the top. A little continental flair like that can be enough to push an outfit into more memorable territory. As long as you’re willing to ditch the oxfords for a day or two, that is.
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As we’ve said before, the internet is a strange and frightening place.
We recently stumbled across a site called eMANcipate dedicated to the following simple yet perplexing question: “Why don’t men wear panty hose?”
The answer, of course, is that they’re men, but the folks at eMANcipate aren’t satisfied to leave it at that. The result is a hodge-podge of uncomfortable-looking models and even more uncomfortable-looking calves.
Lest you be tempted off the path, allow us to reiterate: Patterned hosiery is a strictly female endeavor, like childbirth or hosting The View. And that’s a good thing.
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Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.
We’ve had a few leading men land MOTHs while wearing scarves so far: Brad Pitt, Matthew Broderick and Stanley Tucci to be specific. None of them pulled it off with quite as much rock star style and sheer aplomb as the newest addition to the club, however: actor Jared Leto.
At an anti-animal cruelty event hosted by Ellen DeGeneres in L.A. the other night, Leto wore a black-and-white tartan fringed affair of indeterminate origin with a snappy dark blue pinstripe single-breasted peak lapel jacket from Japanese haute-hipster label Roen, a contrast-collar dress shirt from Operations, and dark wash jeans by J. Lindeberg.
More on the well-scarfed man»
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Pennsylvania’s Bollman Hat Company is celebrating their 140th anniversary with a stroll through the preferred headgear of the last 14 decades. From the fads (the fez of the 1870s and the porkpie of the 1940s) to the classics (the fedora), it’s a pretty good primer on what hats have to offer.
As you might guess, our choice is the bowler, conveniently situated in the 1890s. It may not keep your ears warm or your eyes shaded, but a little sun never hurt anyone.
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Idol Radec has been kicking around the Los Angeles scene for a few seasons now, but thanks to their casual approach to web design, we’ve had trouble getting a close look at their goods. Luckily, Fashionisto got their hands on the spring collection so we could see for ourselves.
It’s nothing mind-blowing—in fact, didn’t we see that tie in the window at Banana Republic?—but there’s nothing wrong with playing it safe. We’re always glad to see a contrast shawl collar and pair of Newport Reds
even if we already know where to get them.
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We love a good mustache, even if it’s in enamel form. Better Living Through Design turned us on to this keychain, a reminder of the most controversial of grooming decisions.
It might be a little unwieldy
but so is the real thing.
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British-born photographer Ronny Jaques, who died earlier this year at the age of 98, never achieved the fame of contemporaries like Richard Avedon and Horst P. Horst. The cognoscenti however have long admired the brilliant work he did for the likes of Harper’s Bazaar, Town & Country and Holiday (along with Slim Aarons) in the ’40s, ’50s and ’60s. His images, like this one of Robert Mitchum from 1947, resonate with all the glamour and sophistication of those lost days, made more compelling by the fact that Jacques never glossed over his subjects.
Better late than never, Jaques’ work has now been collected in an alluring new book, Stolen Moments. He worked solo and without set-dressing of any kind, capturing his subjects in unguarded moments - hence the title - with only their raw style on display. Soak it up, son, soak it up.
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Staring at the Sun: It turns out our sun looks like a pizza up close. Copernicus would be proud. [Boston Globe]
Just What I’ve Always Wanted: A user’s guide to the insulting gift. [Esquire]
If I Said You Had a Beautiful Antibody
: Irony-prone scientists advance the chemistry of lust by studying Mormons. [Popular Science]
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Jacob Silberberg for IHT
For all the love—and occasional tough love—we throw The Sartorialist, it’s easy to forget that street style has been around for quite some time.
The Times has a pair of pieces reprinted in the International Herald Tribune today on Bill Cunningham, arguably the progenitor of street photography—at least as far as newspapers are concerned. Cunningham started snapping during World War Two, aided by a well-oiled bicycle and an eye for clothing. Editors had space to fill and Cunningham had content that wasn’t just another society ball.
His files are still mostly unpublished, spanning 60 years of spontaneous style and just waiting for a glossy retrospective from some lucky publisher. But for now we’ll have to rely on Cunningham’s more recent descendents to keep us up to date.
A few choice quotes from the photo pioneer»
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As we were saying earlier, the bag you carry should depend a lot on where you’re going. If you’re going to a hipster accounting convention—possibly held in a terrifyingly angular office building—you may want to grab one of these.
Based on a recreation of 1930s steamer trunks, these suitcases from French bespoke luggage firm Pinel & Pinel end up looking more like a macho version of the hardshell briefcase you’ll see on the hands of businessmen from New York to Mumbai. Only the extra corner accents and the lightweight carbon fiber mean this version’s set up to take the kind of punishment accountants only see in movies.
The way business is going these days, that might come in handy.
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Our inexplicable love of credenzas is well documented, but apparently we’re not the only ones.
Red Hook modernists Standard41 whipped up six different models—including this one, aptly named “Big Boy”—to assuage their own 60s nostalgia. One of the other types includes a wine rack, but we’re happy just to have a few drawers, some sliding panels, and an alternative to buying something that was actually made in 1961.
Ladies and gentleman, your arduous credenza search is over.
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So far, the rise of workwear has mostly focused on the American Rust Belt, but there’s plenty of labor going on across the water too. Or should we say, labour.
Inspired by England’s Northeast coast, Norsea Industries comes at the blue-collar revival from a scrappier vantage, mixing steelworker denim with Member’s-only style jackets, vintage-inspired beachwear, and a nautical vibe that reminds us more than a little bit of Rogues Gallery. Apparently Yorkshire is quite the sartorial melting pot. After this, we’ll be sure to keep our eye on it.
After all, one post-industrial wasteland is as good as another.
Get a closer look at the line after the jump»
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We ran into this Thom Browne number again now that it’s in season, and it looks a lot different than it did on the runway. The sharply visible grid gives it a touch of the drafting table, which has always been part of Mr. Browne’s appeal, but it’s still pretty easy on the eyes. The gray suit is an underestimated part of any wardrobe, but we doubt anyone will underestimate this.
Plus, it should look great with a little foliage.
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Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.
Has well-upholstered Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter finally seen the error of his ways? We had reason to chide the glossy gourmand a few months back for wearing a double-breasted blazer after we distinctly instructed him to eschew the look. While we would scarcely expect a fellow who owns a glamorous greasy spoon to keep his girlish figure, we do feel one of Mr. Carter’s stature ought to employ his tailor in the artful concealment of same.
Therefore, we were delighted to see him sporting a (relatively) trim single-breasted navy blazer at the book bash for his latest coffee-table tome, Vanity Fair: The Portraits. Compare this photo to those of the earlier double-breasted numbers and witness the miraculous transformation. Here is a fellow we would call leonine, majestic, statuesque. And yes, that’s him on the right.
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The Boogeyman: A few politically minded jack-o-lantern templates in time for Halloween. [NotCot]
In the Trenches: A roundup of trenchcoats, in case the economy has you turning to gumshoe work. [Men.Style]
The Future is Now: DNR peers into the mysterious and terrifying future of men’s denim. [DNR]
Crossing Over: BoingBoing Gadgets crosses over from actual gadget-blogging to fictional gadget-blogging, but only three days a week. We promise to never ever do this.
[BoingBoing Gadgets]
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We’ve often been in the position of trying to convince a friend of the riskiness of heavily knit belts. Yet, as logical as we can be, it’s often hard to convey what a niche item they truly are, and how sparingly they should be applied in any wardrobe.
This picture, we feel, sums it up pretty nicely.
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We’ve known about Guy Ritchie’s upcoming Sherlock Holmes movie, but the fine ladies at Jezebel were kind enough to draw our attention to this picture of the leading man (the inestimable Robert Downey Jr.) in full costume.
Unfortunately they were more interested in his coffee cup than his ascot, but we’ll call this one a victory without seeing another frame. Between the striped waistcoat—which has a touch of Mr. Smith about it—and the finely checkered pants, we’re ready to declare Dr. Holmes the unlikely style icon of the year.
Plus, bowlers are coming back in a big way. And the usual double-brim is so last century.
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The backpack has gotten a bad rap over the years. (No, not that kind of rap.) Usually relegated to hikers and grade-schoolers, it may be due for a revival. After all, true style rises to the occasion, and you don’t want set off into the tropical wilderness with an Italian leather duffel. (For one thing, you’ll ruin the finish.) Not all travel is created equal, and a little utility is nothing to be ashamed of.
This pair is from our old friends at Penfield, who most recently were bringing us some much-needed flannel. Put the two together, and you’re pretty much set for that weekend excursion to Maine.
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Our favorite ex-Conde Nast intern got a bit of video today, thanks to an ESPN profile exploring Mr. Avery’s sensitive side. Sporting a buzzed Mohawk and a self-effacing mumble, Avery spouted bon mots such as “It’s probably my desire for dress up that brings me back to the whole women’s clothing thing,” and “I certainly admire a nice purse.”
Naturally, the interview briefly touched on Avery’s constantly questioned heterosexuality, but we couldn’t help but be embarrassed by the whole thing. Can’t a man admire a purple sequined purse without everyone getting ideas?
See the video here»
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There’s a lot of logos out there, especially on shirts. Even if you go the “art tee” route and end up with an engraved Chinese Dragon on your chest, you might have a sneaking suspicion that your shirt is saying more than it should.
We recommend a solitary non-corporate symbol stamped right above your sternum. The ampersand has a few hundred years of typography behind it, so you can choose between the officious “Arial” and the literary “Baskerville,” which you may recognize from the cover of Wuthering Heights.
As for what it means, that’s just part of the fun. You & me? Milk & sugar? Us & them?
via t-critic
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We spotted Clae at the capsule show in July, but we thought we’d take a moment to examine the full set. The looks range from low-key loafers to Thriller-esque hightops, but the middle ground is where the real action is.
After the jump, see our pick of the litter»
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Labels get inspiration from lots of different places, but this is the first time we’ve seen macho anthropology pop into the mix. We got a look at the new Rogues Gallery line the other day, and it’s not just nautical—it’s practically survivalist. The line takes inspiration from Thor Heyerdahl’s Kon Tiki, documenting a trip from Peru to Polynesia in only a raft, giving RG’s usual Cape Cod sensibility a rougher seagoing edge.
Needless to say, if you’re trying something like that, you’ll need a hell of a sweater.
More pics after the jump»
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